Spetz Specs No. 4082: step-by-step build guide

Crib Mattress Porch Swing

The complete step-by-step guide made from EmyLuDesigns's YouTube video, free on Spetz. For the video, a step-by-step player and answers to your questions, see the Crib Mattress Porch Swing project page.

7 steps, 10 parts, 13 tools, 10 materials

Overview

Finished size: 58-1/2 in W x 33 in D x 19 in H

What You're Building

Build a hanging wood swing for a standard crib mattress.
Fit a compact lounging swing onto small porches where a twin bed frame will not fit.

Why This Design Works

Set the mattress in a 2-inch deep outer 2x4 base box pocket.
Support interior slats below with an overhanging 2x4 and 2x3 sub-base ledge.
Pass two continuous ropes under the base slats for quick leveling.

What It Takes

Cut 2x4, 2x3, and 1x4 boards with a circular saw or miter saw.
Make 90-degree square crosscuts on all parts except four 45-degree top-rail miters.
Pre-drill joints and drive 3-inch exterior screws before painting and hanging from ceiling joists.

What Decides Success

Pre-drill centered pilot holes at joints so 3-inch screws do not split wood.
Anchor four heavy-duty eye screws in the center of overhead structural joists.

Health and safety

Circular and Miter Saws

Support 2x4, 2x3, and 1x4 boards on rigid foam sheets during circular saw cuts to prevent blade binding and kickback.
Keep hands clear of the miter saw blade path and let the blade stop completely before lifting the saw head.
Wear protective equipment, including safety glasses and hearing protection, whenever cutting lumber with the circular saw or miter saw.

Drilling and Driving Screws

Brace the drill firmly when boring 7/8-inch rope holes, as wide Forstner bits can catch in the wood and twist suddenly.
Watch the placement of 3-inch screws on the base and corner posts so your drill bit never strikes buried metal.
Wear safety glasses when pre-drilling with the 5/32-inch bit and driving screws with the impact driver to block flying debris.

Sanding, Paint, and Finishes

Wear a dust mask and safety glasses when sanding dried exterior wood filler to keep fine dust out of your lungs.
Apply exterior paint or stain in an open, ventilated area and wear gloves to avoid skin contact and fume inhalation.
Lay stain-soaked rags flat outdoors to dry or submerge them in water inside a sealed metal can to prevent self-ignition.

Ceiling Joists and Suspension

Check the porch ceiling for hidden electrical wires before drilling overhead pilot holes for the eye screws.
Drive all four 325-pound capacity eye screws directly into the center of structural ceiling joists before loading the swing.
Enlist a helper to lift the assembled wooden swing when connecting the 3/4-inch Manila ropes and heavy-duty S-hooks overhead.
Confirm that all Manila rope knots and S-hooks are tight and fully seated before anyone sits on the swing.

Tools

Speed square (rafter / speed square, Milwaukee)
Circular saw (cordless circular saw, Ryobi, brushless)
Miter saw (power miter saw, Ryobi) (optional)
Drill driver (cordless drill/driver, Ryobi)
Impact driver (cordless impact driver, Ryobi, brushless) (optional)
Drill bit (twist drill bit, 5/32 in)
Forstner bit (Forstner drill bit, 7/8 in)
Tape measure (retractable tape measure, Stanley, FatMax, 25 ft)
Stud finder (electronic stud finder, HART)
Sanding sponge (hand sanding block) (optional)
Adjustable wrench (adjustable crescent wrench) (optional)
Pencil (marking pencil)
Paintbrush (angled sash paintbrush)

Materials

Crib mattress and cover (1, crib mattress)
2x4 boards (6 boards, dimensional lumber, 2x4x8 ft)
2x3 boards (4 boards, dimensional lumber, 2x3x8 ft)
1x4 board (1 board, dimensional trim board, 1x4x6 ft)
Exterior wood screws (2 boxes, coated exterior wood screw, 3 in)
Heavy-duty eye screws (4, screw eye, Everbilt, 325 lb capacity per screw, 3/8 in x 4-7/8 in)
Heavy-duty S-hooks (4, S-hook)
Manila rope (1 roll, natural fiber rope, 3/4 in diameter, 50 ft)
Exterior wood filler (1 tub, wood filler, exterior grade)
Exterior paint or stain (1 gallon, exterior paint, Clare, exterior)

Hardware

Hardware	Count	Used in steps
3 in Exterior wood screws	~58	2, 3, 4, 5
3/8 in x 4-7/8 in Heavy-duty eye screws	4	7
Heavy-duty S-hooks	4	7

Cut list

Part	Name	Qty	Size	Notes
A	Base front and back rail	x2	1 1/2" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 54 1/2" (L)	90° crosscut both ends; installed on edge (3-1/2 in face vertical) at the front and back of the mattress box.
B	Base end rail and interior slat	x7	1 1/2" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 27 1/2" (L)	90° crosscut both ends; 2 installed on edge between the ends of the 54-1/2 in rails to close the box, and 5 laid flat inside the box spaced 6-1/4 in apart flush with the bottom edge.
C	Sub-base back rail	x1	1 1/2" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 51" (L)	90° crosscut both ends; fits flat underneath the base between the back ends of the two 32 in side sub-base rails, creating a 1-1/2 in exterior ledge and a 1/2 in interior ledge.
D	Sub-base side rail	x2	1 1/2" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 32" (L)	90° crosscut both ends; attached flat underneath the left and right sides of the base, flush at the front and overhanging 1-1/2 in at the sides and back. Drill two 7/8 in rope holes through the overhang (4 in from front and 6-1/2 in from back).
E	Back corner post	x4	1 1/2" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 16" (H)	90° crosscut both ends; two posts join in an L-shape on the sub-base ledge at each back corner.
F	Sub-base front rail	x1	1 1/2" (T) × 2 1/2" (W) × 51" (L)	90° crosscut both ends; centered flat underneath the front base rail flush with the front face, leaving 1-3/4 in at each end for the side sub-base rails.
G	Vertical rail support	x9	1 1/2" (T) × 2 1/2" (W) × 16" (H)	90° crosscut both ends; 2 mounted along each side ledge (front and middle) and 5 spaced ~7-1/2 in apart along the back ledge aligned with the interior slats.
H	Back top rail	x1	1 1/2" (T) × 2 1/2" (W) × 58 1/2" (L)	45° miter at both ends (long point to long point) so the inside corners intersect the back corner posts and meet the mitered armrests.
I	Armrest	x2	1 1/2" (T) × 2 1/2" (W) × 33" (L)	45° miter on the back end only (opposing hands for left and right sides) and 90° crosscut on the front end; drill two 7/8 in rope holes (4 in from front and 6-1/2 in from back).
J	Front fascia trim	x1	3/4" (T) × 3 1/2" (W) × 58" (L)	90° crosscut; scribed in place across the front face of the assembled swing and cut flush with the outer edges to cover exposed screw heads.

What to buy

Buy 1 × 1x4 6 ft (1x4 board)
Buy 4 × 2x3 8 ft (2x3 boards)
Buy 6 × 2x4 8 ft (2x4 boards)

Before you start

Lumber Selection

Pick straight, dry 2x4, 2x3, and 1x4 boards with few knots or splits.
Reject twisted or bowed lumber so the sub-base and mitered top rails sit flat.

Layout and Labeling

Check each board off the cut list after cutting to track parts.
Label cut pieces by letter and stage boards in assembly order.

Step by step

Step 1: Measure and Cut the Boards

Cut 2x4 and 2x3 frame boards to length with square ends or 45-degree miters.

Watch this step (3:12)

Parts in this step: (A) Base front and back rail, (B) Base end rail and interior slat, (C) Sub-base back rail, (D) Sub-base side rail, (E) Back corner post, (F) Sub-base front rail, (G) Vertical rail support, (H) Back top rail, (I) Armrest, (J) Front fascia trim

You'll need: Speed square, Circular saw, Miter saw, Tape measure, Pencil, 2x4 boards, 2x3 boards, 1x4 board

1.1 Stage lumber and mark cut lines
- Mark 2x4s for base rails (A, C, D), slats (B), and corner posts (E).
- Mark 2x3s for rail (F), supports (G), top rail (H), and armrests (I).
- Draw square cut lines across boards with a tape measure and speed square.
- Leave 1x4 front fascia trim (J) uncut for scribing in Step 5.
1.2 Make the 90-degree crosscuts
- Lay marked 2x4 and 2x3 boards flat on rigid foam insulation sheets.
- Hold the speed square on the board edge to guide the circular saw shoe.
- Crosscut 90-degree parts: rails (A, C, D, F), slats (B), posts (E), and supports (G).
- Check each piece off the cut list as you cut.
1.3 Cut the 45-degree miters on the top rails
- Set a miter saw to 45 degrees or guide the circular saw along the speed square.
- Cut 45-degree miters on both ends of 58-1/2 in back top rail (H).
- Cut a 45-degree miter on the back end only of each 33 in armrest (I).
- Cut the front end of each armrest (I) square at 90 degrees as a left-and-right pair.

Key measurements

Base front and back rails (A): two 54-1/2 in 2x4 boards
Base end rails and interior slats (B): seven 27-1/2 in 2x4 boards
Sub-base rails (C, D, F): one 51 in 2x4, two 32 in 2x4s, one 51 in 2x3
Vertical posts and supports (E, G): four 2x4s, nine 2x3s cut to 16 in
Mitered top rails (H, I): one 58-1/2 in 2x3 back rail, two 33 in 2x3 armrests

Tip: Rest boards on foam insulation sheets so the circular saw blade cuts cleanly without hitting the bench.
Tip: Only four cuts are 45-degree angles; all others are 90 degrees.
Heads up: Wear safety glasses when using the circular saw or miter saw.

Before you move on: Check the two 33 in armrests (I) have opposing 45-degree miters for a left-right pair.

Step 2: Assemble the Swing Base

Fasten the outer 2x4 mattress frame and five flat interior slats.

Watch this step (6:01)

Parts in this step: (A) Base front and back rail, (B) Base end rail and interior slat

You'll need: Drill driver, Impact driver, Drill bit, Tape measure, Pencil, 2x4 boards, Exterior wood screws

2.1 Assemble the outer base box
- Stand the two 54-1/2 in base front and back rails (A) on 1-1/2 in edges.
- Set two 27-1/2 in base end rails (B) on edge between rails (A) ends.
- Flush all four boards top and bottom for a 3-1/2 in tall box.
- Pre-drill two 5/32 in pilot holes and drive two 3 in screws per corner.
2.2 Space and secure the interior base slats
- Lay the five remaining 27-1/2 in interior slats (B) flat inside, 6-1/4 in apart.
- Flush each flat slat bottom with the bottom edge of rails (A).
- Stand the frame on edge; trace a scrap 2x4 on the outer rail over each slat.
- Pre-drill two centered pilot holes per slat end, drive 3 in screws, flip and repeat.

Key measurements

Interior slat spacing: 6-1/4 in between 27-1/2 in slats (B).
Mattress recess depth: 2 in lip above flat interior slats.
Pilot hole bit size: 5/32 in twist drill bit for 3 in wood screws

Tip: Trace a scrap 2x4 on the outer rail to center screws in the slat edge.
Tip: Stand the base on its side to drill and drive screws straight down.
Heads up: Do not drive screws near 2x4 slat edges without marking the slat outline first.

Before you move on: Check all five slats sit flush with the box bottom, leaving a 2 in top lip.

Step 3: Attach the Sub-Base Support Frame

Screw the sub-base frame under the base box for an exterior ledge and interior slat support.

Watch this step (7:07)

Parts in this step: (C) Sub-base back rail, (D) Sub-base side rail, (F) Sub-base front rail

You'll need: Drill driver, Impact driver, Drill bit, Tape measure, Pencil, 2x4 boards, 2x3 boards, Exterior wood screws

3.1 Attach the centered 51-inch front 2x3
- Flip the base box upside down, flat slats facing up.
- Center the 51 in sub-base front rail (F) flat on front base rail (A).
- Flush the front of rail (F) with rail (A), leaving 1-3/4 in per end.
- Pre-drill 3/4 in from the front face and drive 3 in screws into rail (A).
3.2 Attach the two 32-inch side 2x4s
- Lay a 32 in sub-base side rail (D) flat on each side, tight to rail (F) ends.
- Flush the front ends, leaving about a 1-3/4 in overhang outside each side and 1-1/2 in past the back.
- Prop a 16 in board under the side overhang to hold rail (D) flat while drilling.
- Pre-drill and drive 3 in screws into the base end rail, avoiding corner screws.
3.3 Mark and attach the 51-inch back 2x4
- Fit the 51 in sub-base back rail (C) flat between the two side rails (D) rear ends.
- Overhang rail (C) past back rail (A) by 1-1/2 in outside and 1/2 in inside.
- Hold a scrap 2x4 inside the base rail below to mark the screw line.
- Pre-drill the marked centerline and fasten rail (C) with 3 in exterior screws.

Key measurements

Front rail end gap: 1-3/4 in per end of 51 in front rail (F).
Exterior sub-base ledge: about 1-3/4 in on the left and right, 1-1/2 in at the back.
Interior sub-base lip: 1/2 in overhang under slats to distribute weight.

Tip: Prop one 16 in board under the side overhang as a flat support block while drilling.
Tip: Transfer the hidden base rail edges onto the back sub-base board top with a spare 2x4.
Heads up: Watch existing screw heads on the base side so you do not drill into metal.

Before you move on: Check the front sub-base rail sits flush, the sides overhang about 1-3/4 in and the back 1-1/2 in.

Step 4: Install the Vertical Rail Supports

Fasten four L-shaped corner posts and nine vertical rail supports around the sub-base ledge.

Watch this step (9:01)

Parts in this step: (E) Back corner post, (G) Vertical rail support

You'll need: Drill driver, Impact driver, Drill bit, Tape measure, Pencil, 2x4 boards, 2x3 boards, Exterior wood screws

4.1 Flip base right-side up and inspect ledge
- Flip the base right-side up, sub-base flat on the floor.
- Check the exterior ledge on the left, right, and back (about 1-3/4 in at the sides, 1-1/2 in at the back).
- Check the interior sub-base overhang sits under mattress slats (B).
4.2 Attach the back corner 2x4 posts and side 2x3 supports
- Set one 16 in back corner post (E) flush on each rear ledge corner.
- Butt a second post (E) against the first's front in an L-shape.
- Drive two 3 in screws at each base and two joining the posts.
- Mount two 16 in vertical rail supports (G) per side: front-flush and centered.
4.3 Attach the five back 2x3 vertical rail supports
- Align five 16 in supports (G) with slats (B) along the back ledge.
- Pre-drill the top base hole; drive one 3 in screw to lock alignment.
- Pre-drill below the first hole and drive a second 3 in screw.

Key measurements

Vertical rail support height: 16 in for four 2x4 posts (E) and nine 2x3 supports (G).
Back vertical support spacing: about 7-1/2 in, aligned with interior slats.

Tip: Pre-drill and drive each back support's top base screw first so it stays vertical for the second.
Tip: Align the five back supports and five interior slats for even spacing.
Heads up: Keep the upper screw joining the corner posts (E) down from the top end so top rail screws do not hit it.

Before you move on: Check all 13 vertical posts and supports stand plumb and flush at 16 in.

Step 5: Attach the Top Rails, Armrests, and Front Trim

Mitered back rail and armrests cap the vertical supports; 1x4 fascia covers the front screws.

Watch this step (12:00)

Parts in this step: (H) Back top rail, (I) Armrest, (J) Front fascia trim

You'll need: Speed square, Circular saw, Drill driver, Impact driver, Drill bit, Pencil, 2x3 boards, 1x4 board, Exterior wood screws

5.1 Attach the mitered 58-1/2 inch back top rail
- Set the 58-1/2 in back top rail (H) flat on the rear supports.
- Align each miter's inside corner with the back post (E) inside corner.
- Drive two 3 in screws per corner post and one per back support.
5.2 Attach the left and right 33-inch armrests
- Set 33 in armrests (I) flat on the side supports and corner posts.
- Flush the rear miter against rail (H) and flush the front end.
- Drive two 3 in screws at the rear corner, one per side support.
5.3 Measure, cut, and install the 1x4 front trim
- Tip the swing on its back; lay the 1x4 front fascia trim (J) across the front.
- Set one end side-flush and mark the other end flush.
- Cut trim (J) square with a speed square and circular saw.
- Pre-drill and screw trim (J) across the front with 3 in exterior screws.

Key measurements

Back top rail length: 58-1/2 in, mitered 45 degrees both ends.
Armrest length: 33 in, mitered 45 degrees at the rear.
Front fascia trim length: about 58 in, scribed flush across the front.

Tip: Overhang the outer edge of top rail (H) slightly so the 45-degree miter meets the corner post cleanly.
Tip: Mark the 1x4 front trim against the swing before cutting for a flush fit.

Before you move on: Check both rear 45-degree miters close tight and the 1x4 front trim covers all front screw heads.

Step 6: Drill Rope Holes, Fill, and Paint

Bore eight 7/8-inch rope holes through the armrests and sub-base, then fill, sand, and paint the frame.

Watch this step (13:32)

Parts in this step: (D) Sub-base side rail, (I) Armrest

You'll need: Drill driver, Forstner bit, Tape measure, Sanding sponge, Pencil, Paintbrush, Exterior wood filler, Exterior paint or stain

6.1 Bore 7/8-inch rope holes through armrests and sub-base
- Mark armrests (I) 4 in from front and 6-1/2 in from back.
- Mark sub-base side rails (D) directly below the armrest marks.
- Set a scrap board under each sub-base side rail (D) to prevent exit tear-out.
- Bore straight through the eight marks with a drill and 7/8 in Forstner bit.
6.2 Fill screw holes, sand, and apply exterior finish
- Fill exposed screw holes and seams with exterior wood filler.
- Sand dry wood filler smooth with a sanding sponge.
- Coat the frame in exterior paint or stain with a paintbrush.

Key measurements

Rope hole diameter: 7/8 in bored with a Forstner bit
Front rope hole inset: 4 in back from armrest and sub-base front edges
Rear rope hole inset: 6-1/2 in forward from armrest and sub-base back edges

Tip: Back the sub-base ledge bottom with a scrap board when drilling with the Forstner bit to protect the floor.
Heads up: Wear safety glasses when boring 7/8 in rope holes and sanding wood filler.

Before you move on: Before hanging, check all eight 7/8 in holes are clean through-holes and the exterior paint is dry.

Step 7: Mount Eye Screws and Hang the Swing

Four heavy-duty eye screws in the ceiling joists hang the swing level on Manila ropes.

Watch this step (14:01)

Parts in this step: (B) Base end rail and interior slat, (D) Sub-base side rail, (I) Armrest

You'll need: Drill driver, Drill bit, Stud finder, Adjustable wrench, Pencil, Crib mattress and cover, Heavy-duty eye screws, Heavy-duty S-hooks, Manila rope

7.1 Locate ceiling joists and install four heavy-duty eye screws
- Find and mark the ceiling joist centers for the four hanging points.
- Pre-drill pilot holes straight up into the marked joist centers.
- Thread 3/8 in x 4-7/8 in heavy-duty eye screws into the pilot holes.
- Turn each screw fully home with an adjustable wrench through the eye loop.
7.2 Thread the Manila rope under the swing and hang from S-hooks
- Cut the 50 ft Manila rope into two 25 ft lengths.
- Run one rope down the front-left holes, under slats (B), up the front-right.
- Run the second rope down the back-left, under the slats, up the back-right.
- Knot all four ends to S-hooks, level the swing, and put the mattress inside.

Key measurements

Eye screw specs: 3/8 in x 4-7/8 in, rated 325 lb per screw in solid joists
Rope lengths: two 25 ft pieces cut from a 50 ft roll of 3/4 in Manila rope

Tip: Run each rope continuously under the swing slats from left to right for easy leveling.
Tip: Tie the two parallel ropes together at the center under the slats to prevent spreading.
Heads up: Anchor all four eye screws into structural ceiling joist centers before sitting on the swing.

Before you move on: Verify all four eye screws are fully threaded into solid joists and the swing hangs level before use.

Finishing

Filling and Sanding

Pack exterior wood filler into countersunk screw holes and miter joints.
Once dry, sand filled spots and board edges smooth with a sanding sponge.

Exterior Finish

Brush exterior paint evenly on the frame, including underside slats and sub-base.
Let the coating dry before threading the 3/4 in Manila rope.

Alternatives

Use exterior wood stain instead of exterior paint for a natural wood look.
Substitute heavy-duty hanging chains for 3/4 in Manila rope if preferred.

These Specs are built from EmyLuDesigns's video “Crib Mattress Porch Swing”. Open the Crib Mattress Porch Swing project page.