Crib Mattress Porch Swing
Step-by-step guide made from EmyLuDesigns's YouTube video.
Build a custom wooden porch swing sized to fit a standard crib mattress using 2x4, 2x3, and 1x4 lumber. The frame features a reinforced sub-base, mitered armrests, and 3/4-inch Manila rope suspended from ceiling eye screws.
The full step-by-step Spetz Specs for this project (every part, size, diagram and step, free): Crib Mattress Porch Swing Spetz Specs.
- Difficulty: beginner
Safety
- Wear safety glasses when operating circular saws, miter saws, and drills.
- Ensure all four ceiling eye screws are anchored directly into the center of structural ceiling joists and rated for the intended load before sitting on the swing.
Must know before you build
- Keep the screws joining the two 16-in back corner 2x4 posts low enough so the top rail and armrest screws don't collide with them.
- Bore 7/8-in holes with a Forstner bit to give the 3/4-in Manila rope clearance to pass.
- Route two continuous rope lengths side to side under the base instead of four ties to easily level the swing.
- Use an adjustable wrench through the eye screws as a lever to drive them deep into ceiling joists.
- Outline frame positions on slats before fastening to avoid driving screws too close to edges.
Tools
- Speed square (rafter / speed square, Milwaukee)
- Circular saw (cordless circular saw, Ryobi, brushless)
- Miter saw (power miter saw, Ryobi) (optional)
- Drill driver (cordless drill/driver, Ryobi)
- Impact driver (cordless impact driver, Ryobi, brushless) (optional)
- Drill bit (twist drill bit, 5/32 in)
- Forstner bit (Forstner drill bit, 7/8 in)
- Tape measure (retractable tape measure, Stanley, FatMax, 25 ft)
- Stud finder (electronic stud finder, HART)
- Sanding sponge (hand sanding block) (optional)
- Adjustable wrench (adjustable crescent wrench) (optional)
- Pencil (marking pencil)
- Paintbrush (angled sash paintbrush)
Materials
- Crib mattress and cover (1, crib mattress)
- 2x4 boards (6 boards, dimensional lumber, 2x4x8 ft)
- 2x3 boards (4 boards, dimensional lumber, 2x3x8 ft)
- 1x4 board (1 board, dimensional trim board, 1x4x6 ft)
- Exterior wood screws (2 boxes, coated exterior wood screw, 3 in)
- Heavy-duty eye screws (4, screw eye, Everbilt, 325 lb capacity per screw, 3/8 in x 4-7/8 in)
- Heavy-duty S-hooks (4, S-hook)
- Manila rope (1 roll, natural fiber rope, 3/4 in diameter, 50 ft)
- Exterior wood filler (1 tub, wood filler, exterior grade)
- Exterior paint or stain (1 gallon, exterior paint, Clare, exterior)
Step by step
Step 1: Measure and Cut the Boards
Measure and mark the 2x4 and 2x3 boards according to the cut list, then make the 90-degree crosscuts and 45-degree miter cuts using a circular saw or miter saw.
- Stage lumber and mark cut lines. Place the six 8-foot 2x4s and four 8-foot 2x3s on your workbench. From the 2x4s, measure and mark: two at 54-1/2 in (front and back base rails), seven at 27-1/2 in (base end pieces and slats), one at 51 in (back sub-base rail), two at 32 in (side sub-base rails), and four at 16 in (back corner posts). From the 2x3s, measure and mark: one at 51 in (front sub-base rail), one at 58-1/2 in (back top rail, 45-degree miter both ends), two at 33 in (armrests, 45-degree miter on the back end only), and nine at 16 in (vertical rail supports). Use a tape measure and speed square to draw straight cut lines across the face of each board. Set the 6-foot 1x4 board aside uncut until Step 5.3, where it is scribed to fit the assembled frame.
- Make the 90-degree crosscuts. Set the boards on rigid foam insulation sheets to protect your work surface. Hold the speed square against the board as a straightedge guide for the circular saw shoe and cut all the 90-degree pieces to length: the 54-1/2 in, 27-1/2 in, 51 in, 32 in, and 16 in boards from both the 2x4s and 2x3s.
- Tip: Check off each board on your cut list as you finish cutting it so you don't lose track of your pieces.
- Cut the 45-degree miters on the top rails. Make the four 45-degree miter cuts on the 58-1/2 inch 2x3 back top rail (both ends) and the two 33-inch 2x3 armrests (back end only) using either a miter saw set to 45 degrees or a circular saw guided along the 45-degree edge of a speed square.
- Tip: Only four cuts in the entire project are 45-degree angles (for the back rail and armrests); every other cut is a standard 90-degree crosscut.
Step 2: Assemble the Swing Base
Pre-drill and screw together the 54-1/2 inch front and back boards and 27-1/2 inch slats spaced 6-1/4 inches apart using 3-inch exterior screws.
- Assemble the outer base box. Stand the two 54-1/2 inch 2x4s on edge (3-1/2 inch face vertical) for the front and back rails, positioning two of the 27-1/2 inch 2x4s on edge between their ends so all four boards sit flush at the same 3-1/2 inch height. Pre-drill two pilot holes at each corner with a 5/32-inch bit and drive 3-inch exterior wood screws to form the outer box.
- Space and secure the interior base slats. Lay the five remaining 27-1/2 inch 2x4 slats flat (3-1/2 inch face horizontal) inside the box, aligned flush with the bottom edge of the 54-1/2 inch rails and spaced 6-1/4 inches apart so the outer box forms a 2-inch lip above the slats for the mattress to sit in. Stand the base frame vertically on edge, trace a scrap piece of 2x4 along the bottom edge of the outer rail at each slat location to center two pilot holes, screw one side in, then flip the frame over to pre-drill and screw the opposite side.
- Tip: Trace a scrap piece of 2x4 on the outside of the frame rail to mark the exact width of the slat underneath before drilling pilot holes.
- Tip: Stand the base frame vertically on its side when attaching the slats so you can drill and drive screws straight downwards.
- Common mistake: Driving screws too close to the edge of the 2x4 slat and splitting the wood.
Step 3: Attach the Sub-Base Support Frame
Flip the base upside down and attach the 51-inch front 2x3, the two 32-inch side 2x4s, and the 51-inch back 2x4 to create a supporting ledge with a 1-1/2 inch exterior overhang.
- Attach the centered 51-inch front 2x3. Flip the assembled base upside down. Center the 51-inch 2x3 along the front rail so it sits flush with the front face and leaves a 1-3/4 inch gap at each end, then pre-drill and secure it into the underlying 2x4 with 3-inch exterior screws.
- Tip: Center the 51-inch 2x3 on the front rail so there is a 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch space at each end for the side 2x4s, and keep its outer edge flush with the front of the base.
- Tip: Because the 2x3 is wider than the 1-1/2 inch edge of the 2x4 base rail underneath, drill your pilot holes about 3/4 inch in from the flush front face so the screws go into the center of the 2x4 below.
- Attach the two 32-inch side 2x4s. Position a 32-inch 2x4 along each side of the upside-down base with its inside edge butted tightly against the end of the 51-inch front 2x3 and its front end flush, leaving a 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch overhang along the outside of the base and a 1-1/2 inch overhang past the back. Prop a scrap 16-inch board underneath the overhang for support, then pre-drill and drive 3-inch screws into the base.
- Tip: Place one of the 16-inch boards underneath the 1-1/2 inch side overhang to support the 32-inch 2x4 flat while drilling.
- Tip: Watch the existing screw heads on the side of the base so you don't drill into them when attaching the sub-base.
- Common mistake: Drilling into the existing base screws when attaching the sub-base boards.
- Mark and attach the 51-inch back 2x4. Fit the 51-inch 2x4 between the back ends of the two 32-inch side boards so it overhangs the underlying back rail on both sides: 1-1/2 inches on the outside and 1/2 inch on the inside under the slats. Hold a spare piece of 2x4 flush against the inside face of the underlying base rail to mark the center of the rail onto the top of the board, then pre-drill along that line and drive 3-inch screws.
- Tip: Use a spare piece of 2x4 to mark the edges of the underlying base rail on the 51-inch back sub-base board so your screws go right into the center.
Step 4: Install the Vertical Rail Supports
Flip the base right-side up and attach the 16-inch 2x4 corner posts and 16-inch 2x3 vertical railing supports around the sides and back.
- Flip base right-side up and inspect ledge. Flip the base assembly right-side up so the sub-base sits on the floor. Verify that there is a 1-1/2 inch exterior ledge around the left, right, and back sides for the 16-inch rail supports, and an interior ledge under the slats.
- Attach the back corner 2x4 posts and side 2x3 supports. At each back corner, place one 16-inch 2x4 on the back sub-base ledge flush with the outside edge of the side ledge, and place a second 16-inch 2x4 on the side sub-base ledge with its back edge abutting the front face of the first 2x4 to form an L-shaped corner post. Secure each board with two 3-inch screws at the bottom into the base, and drive two screws through the side 2x4 into the back 2x4 in the middle and upper sections. Attach two 16-inch 2x3s along each side (one flush at the very front and one centered in the middle) using two 3-inch screws at the base.
- Tip: Do not place the upper screw joining the two back corner 2x4s too close to the top edge, because the top railing and armrest screws will be driven down into the top of those posts.
- Common mistake: Placing a screw too high on the back corner 2x4 posts where it will interfere with the top rail screws.
- Attach the five back 2x3 vertical rail supports. Space five 16-inch 2x3s along the back ledge roughly 7-1/2 inches apart, lining them up with the interior 2x4 base slats. Pre-drill the top hole on each support and drive the first 3-inch screw to hold it vertical, then pre-drill and drive the second screw below it.
- Tip: Line up the five back 2x3 vertical supports with the interior 2x4 base slats (roughly 7-1/2 inches apart).
- Tip: Pre-drill and drive the top screw first on each vertical support to lock its alignment before drilling the bottom hole.
Step 5: Attach the Top Rails, Armrests, and Front Trim
Secure the mitered 2x3 back rail and side armrests to the vertical supports, then cut and attach the 1x4 trim board across the front of the base.
- Attach the mitered 58-1/2 inch back top rail. Set the 58-1/2 inch 2x3 top rail across the back vertical supports so the inside corner of each 45-degree miter intersects the corner of the 2x4 post below. Pre-drill and drive two 3-inch screws into each corner post and one screw into each of the five back 2x3 supports.
- Tip: Align the 45-degree miter on the top rail so its inside corner intersects the inside corner of the 2x4 post below, allowing the outer edge to overhang slightly.
- Attach the left and right 33-inch armrests. Position each 33-inch 2x3 armrest on top of the side vertical supports so its 45-degree miter matches flush against the back rail miter and the front end is flush with the front vertical support. Pre-drill and secure with two 3-inch screws at the back corner and one screw into the middle and front supports.
- Measure, cut, and install the 1x4 front trim. Stand the swing on its back and lay the 1x4 board across the front face to cover the exposed screw heads, aligning one end flush with the outside edge. Mark and cut the opposite end flush with a speed square and circular saw, then pre-drill and attach the 1x4 across the front with exterior screws.
- Tip: Hold the 1x4 trim board in place on the assembled swing and mark the exact length directly from the frame before cutting so it fits flush with both sides.
Step 6: Drill Rope Holes, Fill, and Paint
Bore 7/8-inch holes through the armrests and sub-base with a Forstner bit, fill exposed screw holes with exterior wood filler, sand smooth, and apply exterior paint.
- Bore 7/8-inch rope holes through armrests and sub-base. Chuck a 7/8-inch Forstner bit into your drill. Measure and mark 4 inches from the front and 6-1/2 inches from the back on both armrests and on the corresponding side sub-base ledges directly below, then drill straight through all eight locations with a scrap board underneath the base to prevent tear-out.
- Tip: Place a scrap board underneath the sub-base ledge when drilling through with the 7/8-inch Forstner bit to protect the floor and prevent wood tear-out.
- Fill screw holes, sand, and apply exterior finish. Fill all exposed screw holes and joints with exterior wood filler and sand smooth with a sanding block once dry. Apply your choice of exterior paint or stain over the entire wooden frame.
Step 7: Mount Eye Screws and Hang the Swing
Locate the porch ceiling joists with a stud finder, pre-drill and install four heavy-duty eye screws, and thread two lengths of 3/4-inch Manila rope through the swing and under the base to hang it.
- Locate ceiling joists and install four heavy-duty eye screws. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the center of the porch ceiling joists for all four hanging points. Pre-drill pilot holes into the joists and thread in four 3/8-inch x 4-7/8-inch heavy-duty eye screws (rated for 325 lbs each), using an adjustable wrench through the eye for leverage.
- Tip: Insert an adjustable wrench through the loop of the eye screw to act as a T-handle lever when twisting it into the ceiling joist.
- Watch out: Always locate the exact center of the ceiling joists with a stud finder so the eye screws achieve their full 325-pound weight rating.
- Thread the Manila rope under the swing and hang from S-hooks. Cut the 50-foot roll of 3/4-inch Manila rope into two equal lengths. Thread one rope down through the front-left armrest and sub-base holes, across the width of the swing underneath all five base slats, and up through the front-right sub-base and armrest holes. Thread the second rope down through the back-left armrest and sub-base holes, across underneath the slats, and up through the back-right sub-base and armrest holes. Optionally tie the two parallel ropes together at the center under the slats to keep them from shifting. Tie knots at the four top ends to hook onto the ceiling S-hooks and place the crib mattress inside.
- Tip: Cut the 50-foot Manila rope into two lengths and pass each length side to side underneath the swing base slats rather than tying four separate ropes, making it much easier to level the swing.