6x10 Lean-To Backyard Storage Shed
Step-by-step guide made from Everyday Shed's YouTube video.
Build a 6x10 lean-to storage shed from the ground up on a leveled TuffBlock foundation. The structure uses a 2x6 pressure-treated floor, 24-inch on-center wall framing, painted LP SmartSide panel siding, an integrated double door, and a sloped asphalt-shingled roof with gable vents.
The full step-by-step Spetz Specs for this project (every part, size, diagram and step, free): 6x10 Lean-To Backyard Storage Shed Spetz Specs.
- Difficulty: intermediate
- Finished size: 6 ft x 10 ft
Safety
- Always wear eye protection when cutting lumber or routing siding panels, as routing LP SmartSide creates heavy dust.
- Ask a helper to assist when raising heavy 10-foot walls, and immediately attach a temporary diagonal 2x4 brace to the shed floor to hold the wall stable while you plumb and anchor it.
- Use caution and maintain stable footing when working on a step ladder and on the sloped shed roof.
Must know before you build
- Cut integrated front doors open before framing side walls to avoid getting trapped inside.
- Set roof overhang boards 1/2 inch above rafters to create a recessed pocket for roof decking.
- Have the lumber yard rip floor and roof decking sheets to size for clean, fast, square cuts.
- Trim sloped side-wall siding flush along rafters using a palm router with a flush-trim bit.
- Use a 1/2-inch nap roller to cover textured LP SmartSide panel siding in a single pass.
Tools
- Cordless drill/driver (DeWalt)
- Cordless impact driver (DeWalt)
- Spirit level (box beam level, Kobalt)
- Vertical panel saw (stationary panel saw) (optional)
- Tape measure (pocket tape measure)
- Cordless circular saw (DeWalt)
- Caulking gun (manual caulk gun)
- Broom (angle broom) (optional)
- Step ladder (A-frame step ladder, Werner)
- Chalk line (chalk line reel)
- Cordless blower (cordless jobsite blower, DeWalt) (optional)
- Paint roller and tray (paint roller frame with extension pole and tray, 1/2 in nap roller cover)
- Claw hammer
- One-handed bar clamps (trigger clamps, Irwin, Quick-Grip) (optional)
- Speed square (rafter square)
- Cordless palm router (cordless compact router with flush-trim bit, DeWalt) (optional)
- Eye protection (safety glasses)
- Utility knife
- Pneumatic roofing nailer (pneumatic coil roofing nailer, DeWalt) (optional)
- Hole saw bit (hole saw drill attachment)
- Ratchet and socket (socket wrench)
Materials
- Floor framing lumber (rim joists and floor joists) (7 boards, pressure-treated dimensional lumber, 2x6 pressure-treated, 2x6 x 12 ft)
- Exterior framing and deck screws (coated exterior wood screws)
- Foundation blocks (polyolefin deck foundation blocks, TuffBlock)
- Floor decking sheets (2 sheets, OSB tongue-and-groove subfloor panels, TruFlor, 3/4 in tongue-and-groove OSB subfloor, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- Wall studs and plates (dimensional framing lumber, 2x4)
- Engineered wood panel siding (9 sheets, grooved panel siding, LP SmartSide, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- Exterior caulk (paintable exterior sealant)
- Exterior paint (exterior latex paint)
- Door and exterior trim boards (about 15 boards, primed engineered wood trim, LP SmartSide, 1x4 x 8 ft)
- Small stainless steel trim screws (stainless steel screws)
- Double shed door hardware kit (1 kit, shed door hardware set, Everyday Shed, 6 T-hinges, 2 spring-loaded barrel bolts, 1 locking T-handle latch)
- Roof rafters (6 boards, dimensional lumber)
- Roof overhang boards (4 boards, dimensional lumber, 2x4 x 10 ft)
- Roof decking sheets (2 sheets, OSB sheathing panels, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- Drip edge flashing (metal roof drip edge)
- Synthetic roof underlayment (synthetic roofing underlayment, ReliaBilt)
- Plastic cap nails (plastic cap roofing nails)
- Asphalt roof shingles (architectural asphalt shingles)
- Roofing nails (galvanized roofing nails)
- Gable vents (2 vents, louvered rectangular shed vents, 16 x 4 in louvered aluminum vent)
Step by step
Step 1: Frame, Level, and Deck the Shed Floor
Assemble the pressure-treated floor joists, level the frame on TuffBlocks over a gravel pad, square the corners, and screw down the ripped OSB floor decking.
- Lay out and assemble the floor joists. Lay out the pressure-treated floor joists and rim joists on the gravel pad. Secure each floor joist by driving three exterior screws through the rim joist into the end of the joist.
- Position and level the frame on TuffBlocks. Set the assembled floor frame onto the TuffBlock foundation blocks arranged on the gravel pad. Check the frame with a spirit level and adjust the gravel under the blocks until the platform is level.
- Tip: Use TuffBlocks on a gravel pad for a lightweight foundation that is easy to level.
- Rip and dry-fit the OSB floor decking. Lay the first full 4x8 sheet of tongue-and-groove OSB decking onto the floor frame. Rip the second 4x8 sheet down to size and place the cut sections onto the remaining exposed joists to complete the 6x10 deck.
- Tip: Bring a copy of your shed plans to the lumber yard and ask them to rip the floor decking sheets for you at no charge.
- Square the frame and screw down the decking. Measure both diagonal corners of the floor frame to verify they are equal and the frame is square. Drive exterior screws through the OSB floor decking into the joists below.
- Tip: Measure both diagonal corners of the floor frame before screwing down the decking; when both measurements match, the frame is square.
- Common mistake: Fastening the floor decking before squaring the floor frame.
Step 2: Frame, Sheet, Paint, and Trim the Back Wall
Frame the 10-foot back wall with studs 24 inches on center, attach 2.5 sheets of LP SmartSide siding with a 1.5-inch bottom overhang, caulk the seams, and trim off the excess siding.
- Frame the back wall with studs 24 inches on center. Lay out the top and bottom plates on the shed deck with 2x4 studs spaced 24 inches on center. Drive two screws through the plates into the end of each stud.
- Tip: Start by building the back wall first since it has no openings and uses a straightforward 24-inch on-center stud layout.
- Cut and align the LP SmartSide panels with a 1.5-inch bottom overhang. Place two full sheets and one half sheet of LP SmartSide siding onto the back wall frame. Use a scrap 2x4 block along the bottom plate to set a consistent 1.5-inch bottom overhang, interlock the shiplap edges, and square the panels to the framing.
- Tip: Leave a 1.5-inch overhang of siding at the bottom of the wall so it overlaps the floor framing and covers the floor decking.
- Tip: Use a scrap piece of 2x4 as a spacer gauge to keep the 1.5-inch bottom overhang consistent.
- Tip: Square the first sheet of siding with the wall frame before fastening everything down so the wall stays plumb when stood up.
- Tip: Ensure the overlap and underlap shiplap edges of the LP SmartSide panels fit tightly together so the vertical grooves stay aligned.
- Fasten the siding panels and caulk fastener heads. Drive screws or nails every 6 inches along the panel perimeters and seams, and every 12 inches along the interior studs. Apply exterior caulk over all seams and fastener heads.
- Tip: Drive screws or nails every 12 inches along interior studs and every 6 inches around the perimeter edges and panel seams.
- Tip: Caulk all panel seams and fastener heads while the wall is still lying flat on the deck.
- Trim excess siding off the top of the back wall. Mark the cut line about 4 inches above the top plate of the back wall, leaving room for the rafters and the roof decking, and cut off the excess LP SmartSide with a circular saw. Sweep away the sawdust with a broom.
- Tip: Trim the excess siding sheets to length before painting them to avoid waiting for paint to dry and cleaning sawdust off fresh paint.
- Common mistake: Painting the siding sheets before cutting them to size, which requires waiting for paint to dry and extra cleanup.
Step 3: Stand, Plumb, and Anchor the Back Wall
Attach temporary side braces, raise the back wall onto the floor platform, adjust until plumb, and fasten the bottom plate to the floor.
- Attach temporary brace and raise the back wall. Screw a temporary 2x4 brace to the side stud of the back wall while it is lying flat. Lift the 10-foot wall upright along the back edge of the floor deck and screw the bottom of the diagonal brace into the floor.
- Tip: Attach a temporary 2x4 brace to the side of the wall before lifting it so you can immediately secure it to the floor.
- Tip: Ask a neighbor or friend to help lift the 10-foot wall into place.
- Plumb the wall and fasten the bottom plate to the floor. Check both ends of the standing wall with a spirit level, adjust the diagonal braces until the wall is plumb, and drive two screws or nails through the bottom plate into the floor at every stud bay.
- Tip: Secure the bottom plate to the floor by driving two screws or two nails at every stud location.
Step 4: Frame the Front Wall and Assemble the Door Panels
Frame the front wall on the shed floor and attach the exterior door trim to the painted LP SmartSide panels using small stainless steel screws.
- Frame the front wall studs to the top plate. Lay out the front wall studs and top plate on the shed floor. Drive screws through the top plate into each stud first while leaving the bottom plate off for working clearance.
- Tip: Attach the studs to the top plate first and leave the bottom plate for last when floor space is limited by the standing back wall.
- Fasten the bottom plate to the front wall studs. Slide the front wall frame forward so the bottom overhangs the front of the shed floor, position the bottom plate across the stud ends, and drive two screws into each stud.
- Lay out and attach exterior door trim to the front panels. Place two painted LP SmartSide panels onto the front wall frame and arrange the pre-painted white door trim boards on top. Measure and align the trim boards, then attach the trim to the front of each panel using small stainless steel screws.
- Tip: Use small stainless steel screws to attach the decorative door trim to the front of each panel so they won't rust or stain the white trim.
Step 5: Attach and Trim the Front Wall Siding and Doors
Reinforce the door trim from the back with screws, align and fasten the integrated door and wall panels onto the front wall frame, and trim the top edge along a chalk line.
- Flip the panels and screw into the door trim from the back. Flip both door panels face-down onto the wall frame. Using a straight edge as a guide, rip along the outer edge of each door panel with a circular saw to separate the narrow outer wall siding strips (set these aside for step 5.2). Drive screws through the back of the LP SmartSide door panels into the door trim boards, then flip the panels face-up again.
- Tip: Drive screws through the back of the siding panel into the door trim to create a stronger connection that holds the trim tight over time.
- Center and fasten the front wall panels to the framing. Center the integrated door panels over the framed doorway opening, add the outer siding strips on each side with a 1.5-inch bottom overhang using a 2x4 spacer block, and screw the panels to the wall framing.
- Tip: Center the integrated door panels with the framed wall opening so there is an even strip of siding on each side before driving screws.
- Snap a chalk line and trim excess siding off the front wall. Snap a chalk line across the top of the front wall panels about 4 inches above the top plate, leaving room for the rafters. Cut along the chalk line with a circular saw to remove the excess siding and blow off the sawdust with a cordless blower.
- Tip: Snap a chalk line across the siding panels before cutting with a circular saw to ensure a straight cut.
Step 6: Paint the Front Wall, Install Hinges, and Stand the Wall
Roll exterior paint onto the front wall, screw on the six door hinges, raise the front wall into position with a helper, brace it plumb, and anchor the bottom plate.
- Roll exterior paint onto the front wall. Use a paint roller with a 1/2-inch nap cover on an extension pole to paint the outer siding strips of the front wall to match the doors.
- Tip: Use a 1/2-inch thick nap roller to paint LP SmartSide panels so the paint covers the semi-rough surface in a single pass.
- Install the six door hinges. Position three T-hinges along the outer vertical trim of each door while the wall is lying flat, and drive the hinge screws into the trim and framing.
- Tip: Install the door hinges while the front wall is lying flat on the deck so the doors are ready to cut open once the wall is standing.
- Raise, brace, plumb, and anchor the front wall. With a helper, lift the front wall upright at the front edge of the floor platform. Attach diagonal 2x4 braces to the floor, adjust the wall until a spirit level shows it is plumb, and screw the bottom plate to the floor.
- Tip: Ask a helper to assist with lifting the front wall since the limited deck space makes it awkward to raise alone.
Step 7: Install the Roof Rafters
Position the six roof rafters across the front and back walls and secure each rafter with a face screw and toe screws on both sides.
- Set the rafters and drive a top face screw. Set the roof rafters across the top plates of the taller back wall and lower front wall. Drive one long screw down through the top face of each rafter into the wall top plate to hold it in position.
- Tip: Drive one screw through the top face of the rafter into the top plate first to hold it in place before toe-screwing.
- Toe-screw both sides of all six rafters. Drive toe screws at an angle through both sides of each rafter into the front and back wall top plates across all six rafter locations.
Step 8: Cut Open the Doors, Frame the Doorway, and Install Hardware
Cut the double doors open with a circular saw, install the jack studs and double header plates, cut out the bottom plate threshold, reinforce the doors with interior 2x4s, and mount the barrel bolts and latch.
- Cut the double doors open with a circular saw. Use a cordless circular saw from the inside and outside of the shed to cut along the top, bottom, and center seam of the doors to free them to swing open on their hinges.
- Common mistake: Waiting until after the side walls are installed to cut open the doors, which traps you inside the shed.
- Install doorway jack studs, double header plates, and cut out the threshold. Screw a 2x4 jack stud to the inside of each king stud framing the doorway, tap two flat 2x4 header plates into place above the jack studs and screw them in, then cut out the bottom plate across the doorway threshold with a circular saw.
- Reinforce the inside of each door with a vertical 2x4. Clamp a vertical 2x4 stiffener to the inside center edge of each door, leaving a 1/2-inch gap above the floor frame and a 1/2-inch gap between the two 2x4s. Drive screws through the 2x4 into the door trim.
- Tip: Leave a 1/2-inch gap between the bottom of the interior 2x4 door stiffener and the floor, and a 1/2-inch gap between the two doors, so they open and close without rubbing.
- Install spring-loaded barrel bolts and locking T-handle latch. Screw the spring-loaded barrel bolts to the top and bottom of the interior door stiffener, and install the locking T-handle latch through the active door.
Step 9: Frame, Sheet, Trim, and Paint the Side Walls
Frame and secure the two side walls between the front and back walls, attach the LP SmartSide panels using a temporary ledger board, flush-trim the sloped top edge with a palm router, and paint the siding.
- Frame and install the side walls. Frame the two identical side walls on the shed floor using a speed square to align the studs. Lift each side wall into place between the front and back walls, check for plumb, and screw the framing to the floor and adjacent walls.
- Attach a temporary ledger board and install side wall siding. Screw a temporary 2x4 ledger board horizontally along the bottom edge of the floor frame. Rest the LP SmartSide panels on the ledger board, interlock the shiplap seam, and drive screws into the side wall framing and end rafters.
- Tip: Screw a temporary horizontal 2x4 ledger board along the bottom of the floor frame to support the weight of the side wall siding panels and keep them aligned while fastening.
- Flush-trim the sloped top edge of the side wall siding. Put on safety glasses and run a cordless palm router with a flush-trim bit along the top of the end rafter to trim off the excess side wall siding along the roof slope.
- Tip: Use a palm router with a flush-trim bit to quickly and cleanly trim the top of the side wall siding flush with the sloped rafter.
- Watch out: Wear eye protection when trimming siding with a palm router because it creates a large amount of dust.
- Paint the side wall siding. Use the 1/2-inch nap paint roller on an extension pole to apply exterior paint across the side wall panels.
Step 10: Install Roof Overhangs and Exterior Corner Trim
Fasten the 2x4 roof overhangs 1/2 inch above the rafters around the perimeter and install the painted vertical corner trim boards.
- Install 2x4 roof overhangs and fascia trim around the roofline. Clamp the 2x4 overhang boards around the front, back, and sides of the roofline so their top edges sit 1/2 inch above the top of the rafters, using a scrap of 1/2-inch OSB as a gauge. Screw the 2x4 overhangs and pre-painted white fascia trim into place.
- Tip: Position the 2x4 roof overhangs 1/2 inch above the top of the rafters to create a recessed pocket where the roof decking will sit flush.
- Install the vertical exterior corner trim boards. Position the pre-painted vertical trim boards at each exterior corner of the shed and fasten them to the wall framing with screws.
- Tip: Install all exterior corner trim from the ground before climbing up to work on the roof.
Step 11: Install Roof Decking, Drip Edge, Underlayment, and Shingles
Screw the OSB roof decking sheets to the rafters, nail metal drip edge around the perimeter, secure the synthetic roof underlayment with cap nails, and nail down the asphalt shingles.
- Place and screw down the OSB roof decking. Set the two ripped 4x8 sheets of OSB roof decking into the recessed pocket on top of the rafters. Drive exterior screws through the OSB sheets into each rafter below.
- Tip: Have the lumber yard rip the two sheets of roof decking to size when you buy your materials to save cutting time on site.
- Install the metal drip edge flashing. Position metal drip edge flashing around the entire perimeter of the roof decking and nail it down with roofing nails.
- Roll out and nail down the synthetic roof underlayment. Roll the synthetic roof underlayment across the roof decking from the low side up to the high side, overlapping the courses. Trim the edges with a utility knife and secure the underlayment with plastic cap nails.
- Install the asphalt roof shingles. Lay starter shingles along the bottom eave, then install overlapping courses of architectural asphalt shingles from the bottom of the slope to the top using a hammer or pneumatic roofing nailer. Trim the overhanging shingles flush with a utility knife.
Step 12: Drill Vent Openings and Install the Gable Vents
Drill three holes near the top of each side wall with a hole saw, apply caulk to the back of the gable vents, and screw the vents over the openings.
- Drill three vent holes at the high point of each side wall. Use a cordless drill fitted with a hole saw bit to drill three side-by-side circular openings near the highest point of each side wall.
- Tip: Install the vents at the highest point of the side walls so hot air, moisture, and fumes can escape.
- Caulk and screw the louvered vents over the holes. Apply a bead of exterior caulk around the back flange of the louvered gable vent, center it over the three drilled holes, and drive four screws into the siding to secure it.