6x10 Lean-To Backyard Storage Shed
Step-by-step guide made from Everyday Shed's YouTube video.
Build a 6x10 lean-to storage shed on a concrete block foundation: a 2x6 pressure-treated floor, 2x4 walls 24 inches on center (84 inches tall at the back, 73-1/2 at the front), painted LP SmartSide siding with a trimmed double door cut from the front panels, and a 10-degree shingled roof with two wall vents.
The full step-by-step Spetz Specs for this project (every part, size, diagram and step, free): 6x10 Lean-To Backyard Storage Shed Spetz Specs.
- Difficulty: intermediate
- Finished size: 6 ft x 10 ft (72 x 120 in floor)
Disclaimer
- This shed was designed and built by a DIY builder, not a professional. The plan shares this specific project and is not an engineered set of build drawings. Check your local building codes before building any structure, use your best judgement and work safe.
Safety
- Wear eye protection when cutting lumber and siding panels.
- Raise the heavy 10-foot walls with a helper and brace each one to the floor until it is screwed down.
- Keep stable footing on the step ladder and on the roof.
Must know before you build
- Check the floor frame for square before decking: the diagonal should measure 140 inches.
- Leave 3-3/4 inches of siding above the back wall's top plate: that is where the rafters sit.
- Set the overhangs and siding 1/2 inch above the rafters so the roof decking sits flush.
- Score the doors with perforation cuts and only cut them free once the front wall stands, before the side walls go up.
- Cut the rafters to 73-1/8 inches with a 10-degree plumb cut at both ends and a 2-7/8 inch seat cut.
- Point the vents' louvre blades down, or rain gets in.
Tools
- Cordless drill/driver (DeWalt)
- Cordless impact driver (DeWalt)
- Spirit level (box beam level, Kobalt)
- Vertical panel saw (stationary panel saw) (optional)
- Tape measure (pocket tape measure)
- Cordless circular saw (DeWalt)
- Caulking gun (manual caulk gun)
- Broom (angle broom) (optional)
- Step ladder (A-frame step ladder, Werner)
- Cordless blower (cordless jobsite blower, DeWalt) (optional)
- Paint roller and tray (paint roller frame with extension pole and tray, Wooster, 3/4 in nap roller cover)
- Claw hammer
- One-handed bar clamps (trigger clamps, Irwin, Quick-Grip) (optional)
- Speed square (rafter square)
- Cordless palm router (cordless compact router with flush-trim bit, DeWalt) (optional)
- Eye protection (safety glasses)
- Utility knife
- Pneumatic roofing nailer (pneumatic coil roofing nailer, DeWalt) (optional)
- Hole saw bit (hole saw drill attachment)
- Ratchet and socket (socket wrench)
- Reciprocating saw
- Spade bit (spade drill bit, 5/8 in)
- Square drive bits (driver bits, #1 and #2)
- Staple gun (optional)
- Shovel
Materials
- 2x4 framing lumber, 8 ft (38 boards, framing lumber, 2x4 x 8 ft)
- 2x4 framing lumber, 10 ft (4 boards, framing lumber, 2x4 x 10 ft)
- 2x4 framing lumber, 12 ft (2 boards, framing lumber, 2x4 x 12 ft)
- Pressure-treated 2x6 lumber, 8 ft (9 boards, pressure-treated lumber, 2x6 x 8 ft)
- Pressure-treated 2x6 lumber, 10 ft (2 boards, pressure-treated lumber, 2x6 x 10 ft)
- Floor OSB sheets (2 sheets, OSB floor sheathing, 3/4 in, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- LP SmartSide panel siding (9 sheets, engineered wood panel siding, LP SmartSide, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- OSB roof sheathing (2 sheets, OSB sheathing, 7/16 in, 4 ft x 8 ft)
- Concrete blocks, 2x8x16 (3 blocks, concrete block, 2 x 8 x 16 in)
- Concrete blocks, 4x8x16 (9 blocks, concrete block, 4 x 8 x 16 in)
- Asphalt shingles (3 bundles, asphalt roof shingles)
- Royal PVC trim boards (15 boards, PVC trim, Royal, 1x4 x 8 ft)
- White aluminum drip edge (4 pieces, drip edge, 2 to 3 in, white aluminum, 10 ft)
- Synthetic roof underlayment (roof underlayment)
- Plastic cap nails (cap nails)
- Roofing nails
- Double shed door kit (1 kit, door hardware kit, 6 x 6 in heavy-duty T-hinges, 1 x 4-1/2 in T-handle lock set, 2 spring latch barrel bolt sets, 32 #8 x 2 in and 38 #8 x 1-1/4 in black wood screws)
- Wall vents (2 vents, louvered wall vent)
- #10 x 3-1/2 in exterior screws (exterior screws, #10 x 3-1/2 in)
- #9 x 2-1/2 in exterior screws (exterior screws, #9 x 2-1/2 in)
- #9 x 3 in exterior screws (exterior screws, #9 x 3 in)
- #9 x 2 in exterior screws (exterior screws, #9 x 2 in)
- #7 x 2-1/4 in stainless steel trim screws (stainless steel trim screws, #7 x 2-1/4 in)
- #7 x 1-1/4 in stainless steel trim screws (stainless steel trim screws, #7 x 1-1/4 in)
- #8 x 1-1/8 in exterior screws (exterior screws, #8 x 1-1/8 in)
- Exterior paint (exterior acrylic latex paint, Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint)
- White caulk (caulk, DAP)
- Roofing tar
- Chalk (1 bottle, chalk line refill: a tall plastic squeeze bottle of blue marking chalk powder with a long pointed nozzle cap)
Step by step
Step 1: Frame, Level, and Deck the Shed Floor
Assemble the 72 x 120 in pressure-treated floor frame, set it level on concrete blocks, check the 140 in diagonal and screw down the 3/4 in OSB.
- Lay out and assemble the floor frame. Cut two 2x6 rim boards to 120 inches and nine joists to 69 inches. Fasten the end joists with three #10 x 3-1/2 inch screws at each corner, then the inner joists 16 inches on center (last space 7-1/4 inches) with three screws at each end.
- Set and level the frame on concrete blocks. Starting at the highest corner, dig an area 4 to 6 inches wider than each block so it sits close to level with the ground. Level the blocks along the 10-foot rim, add the center blocks, and check that the diagonal measures 140 inches.
- Tip: Use the perimeter boards as a guide for placing the blocks.
- Cut and fit the OSB floor. Lay the full 3/4 inch OSB sheet, then cut the second sheet into a 48 x 24, a 32 x 24 and an 88 x 24 inch piece and fit them as in the plywood layout.
- Square the frame and screw down the OSB. Use the OSB to square the frame, then drive #9 x 2-1/2 inch screws every 6 inches along the sheet edges and every 12 inches in the field.
- Tip: Measure both diagonals before screwing down the floor; when they match, the frame is square.
- Common mistake: Fastening the floor before the frame is square.
Step 2: Frame, Sheet, Paint, and Trim the Back Wall
Frame the 120 x 84 inch back wall flat on the floor, side it with 92-1/4 inch LP SmartSide panels overlapping the floor by 1-1/2 inches, and leave 3-3/4 inches of siding above the top plate.
- Frame the back wall with studs 24 inches on center. Cut two plates to 120 inches and six studs to 81 inches, mark the studs at 23-1/4, 47-1/4, 71-1/4, 95-1/4 and 118-1/2 inches, and drive two #9 x 3 inch screws into each stud end. Keep the wall flat and use the floor to square it.
- Cut and align the siding with a 1-1/2 inch bottom overlap. Cut two 48 inch and one 24 inch LP SmartSide panels to 92-1/4 inches. Start with an end sheet to square the wall, overlap the floor sheathing and joists by 1-1/2 inches, and butt each sheet to the alignment bead of the last for a 1/8 inch gap.
- Tip: Gauge the 1-1/2 inch bottom overlap with a scrap 2x4.
- Fasten the siding and caulk the screw holes. Drive #9 x 2 inch screws every 12 inches on studs and every 6 inches along the seams, trim the siding flush with the end studs, and caulk the screw holes.
- Trim the siding to 3-3/4 inches above the top plate. Cut the top of all panels so 3-3/4 inches of siding stands above the top plate, sweep off the sawdust, and paint the siding before standing the wall.
- Tip: Paint the siding before it is fully fastened; it can save over an hour.
Step 3: Stand, Plumb, and Anchor the Back Wall
Raise the back wall with a helper, plumb it and drive two #10 x 3-1/2 inch screws through the bottom plate at each stud location.
- Brace and raise the back wall. Screw a temporary 2x4 brace to an end stud, lift the wall along the back edge of the floor with a helper, and screw the brace to the floor.
- Tip: Grab a friend: the wall is heavy.
- Plumb the wall and screw it to the floor. Check both ends with a level, adjust the brace until the wall is plumb, and drive two #10 x 3-1/2 inch screws through the bottom plate at each stud location.
Step 4: Frame the Front Wall and Assemble the Door Panels
Frame the 120 x 73-1/2 inch front wall, cut and paint the 80-1/2 inch front siding, and lay out the door trim with 3/8 inch gaps.
- Frame the front wall studs to the top plate. Cut two plates to 120 inches and six studs to 70-1/2 inches, mark the studs at 11-1/4, 33-3/4, 84-3/4, 107-1/4 and 118-1/2 inches, and drive two #9 x 3 inch screws through the top plate into each. The studs by the door are king studs.
- Fasten the bottom plate to the front wall studs. Slide the frame forward so the stud ends overhang the floor, set the bottom plate and drive two #9 x 3 inch screws into each stud.
- Lay out and attach the door trim. Cut two 48 inch panels and two 12 inch strips to 80-1/2 inches and paint them on the frame without fastening. Lay out the trim (73-1/2 inch sides, 17 inch rails) along each panel's tongue edge and fasten it lightly with #7 x 1-1/4 inch trim screws every 12 inches, with 3/8 inch gaps.
- Tip: A scrap of LP SmartSide is 3/8 inch thick: use it as the spacer.
Step 5: Attach and Trim the Front Wall Siding and Doors
Score the doors out of the siding with perforation cuts, fasten the trim from the back, and screw the front siding to the frame without touching the doors.
- Score the doors and screw into the trim from the back. Drill pilot holes along each door's cut line, flip the panels and make perforation cuts with a circular saw, leaving 2 to 3 uncut chunks on the side and 1 to 2 on top. Then drive #8 x 1-1/8 inch screws through the back into the trim every 12 inches.
- Tip: Screws from the back hold the trim tight over time.
- Fasten the front siding to the framing. Set the two door panels and the 12 inch strips on the frame with the 1-1/2 inch bottom overlap, and drive #9 x 2 inch screws into the frame. Never screw through the doors.
- Common mistake: Screwing through the doors, which stops them swinging.
- Snap a chalk line and trim the top edge. Snap a chalk line across the top of the panels, trim any siding above it with a circular saw, and blow off the sawdust.
Step 6: Paint the Front Wall, Install Hinges, and Stand the Wall
Caulk and paint the front siding with a 3/4 inch nap roller, mount the six T-hinges while the wall is flat, and stand and screw down the front wall.
- Caulk and paint the front wall. Caulk all screw holes and roll exterior paint on the siding with a 3/4 inch nap roller.
- Tip: Use a 3/4 inch nap roller on LP SmartSide.
- Install the six door hinges. Set three 6 inch T-hinges on each door. Use #8 x 1-1/4 inch black screws into the trim and #8 x 2 inch black screws where they reach the framing behind it.
- Raise, brace, plumb, and anchor the front wall. Stand the front wall with a helper, plumb it and drive two #10 x 3-1/2 inch screws through the bottom plate at each stud location.
Step 7: Install the Roof Rafters
Cut six 73-1/8 inch rafters with 10-degree plumb cuts and a 2-7/8 inch seat cut, and fasten them 24 inches on center (23-1/4 at the ends).
- Cut the rafters and set them 24 inches on center. Cut six rafters to 73-1/8 inches with a 10-degree plumb cut at each end (line the speed square's 2 up with the top edge) and a 2-7/8 inch seat cut at one end. Set the outer rafters first, then space the rest 24 inches on center; the end spaces are 23-1/4 inches.
- Screw each rafter through the siding and toe-screw both sides. Drive one #9 x 3 inch screw through the siding into the end of each rafter, then toe-screw one on each side into the top plates.
Step 8: Cut Open the Doors, Frame the Doorway, and Install Hardware
Cut the doors free, add the 70 inch jack studs and the 49-1/2 inch double header, cut out the bottom plate, brace the doors and fit the latch and barrel bolts.
- Cut the double doors free. Finish the perforation cuts with a circular saw to free both doors, before the side walls go up.
- Common mistake: Cutting the doors free after the side walls are up, which traps you inside.
- Install the jack studs and header, and cut out the threshold. Cut two jack studs to 70 inches and two header 2x4s to 49-1/2 inches, sandwich the header between the king studs, and fasten with #9 x 3 inch screws (two through each king stud into the header, four down each jack stud). Cut out the bottom plate across the doorway with a reciprocating saw.
- Brace the inside of each door. Fasten a 70-1/2 inch 2x4 brace on each door with #9 x 2-1/2 inch screws every 12 inches, about 1/2 inch from the panel edge and 3/4 inch above the floor.
- Tip: Leave a 3/4 inch gap under each brace and about 1/2 inch to the panel edge so the doors swing without rubbing.
- Install the barrel bolts and the T-handle latch. Screw the barrel bolts to the top and bottom of the left door's brace. Drill a 5/8 inch hole through the right door with a spade bit, mount the latch through every mounting hole, and fit the D-handle inside with its set screw.
Step 9: Frame, Sheet, Trim, and Paint the Side Walls
Frame the two 65 x 73-1/2 inch side walls between the front and back walls, side them, cut the siding along the roofline and paint it.
- Frame and install the side walls. Cut four 65 inch plates and eight 70-1/2 inch studs, mark the studs at 19-3/4, 43-3/4 and 63-1/2 inches, and screw the frames together with #9 x 3 inch screws. Set each between the front and back walls, screw the bottom plate to the floor with #10 x 3-1/2 inch screws, and drive three #9 x 3 inch screws down the side into the next wall.
- Hang the side wall siding on a temporary ledger. Screw a temporary 2x4 ledger to the floor frame, hang a 48 inch and a 24 inch sheet on each side wall, and fasten with #9 x 2 inch screws, 12 inches on studs and 6 inches on seams.
- Tip: Screw a temporary 2x4 ledger to the floor frame to hold the siding in line.
- Cut the side wall siding along the roofline. Cut the siding along the roofline so its top is flush with the top of the rafters, with a reciprocating saw or a similar tool (a palm router with a flush-trim bit also works).
- Watch out: Wear eye protection: cutting siding throws a lot of dust.
- Caulk and paint the side wall siding. Caulk the screw holes and roll exterior paint on the side wall siding.
Step 10: Install Roof Overhangs and Exterior Corner Trim
Fit the 120-3/4 inch eave overhangs and the rake overhangs 1/2 inch above the rafters, then the corner trim and the 56-3/4 inch top door trim.
- Install the 2x4 roof overhangs. Cut the front and back eave overhangs to 120-3/4 inches and set them, with the siding, 1/2 inch taller than the rafters; screw them on with #9 x 2 inch screws every 12 inches. Cut the rake overhangs a little long (about 84 inches), mark them flush with the eaves, cut and screw them with #9 x 3 inch screws through the siding and the rafter.
- Tip: Measure the eave overhangs carefully: a short board leaves gaps.
- Install the corner trim and the top door trim. Cut the corner trim with a 10-degree angle across the top of the rake-side boards and square on the eave side, measuring each corner from the bottom of the siding to the bottom of the overhang. Fasten with #7 x 2-1/4 inch stainless trim screws, then add the 56-3/4 inch top door trim.
- Tip: Measure each corner yourself: the length varies from shed to shed.
Step 11: Install Roof Decking, Drip Edge, Underlayment, and Shingles
Screw down the 7/16 inch OSB roof decking, add the drip edge and underlayment, and shingle from the starter row up, sealing the last row's nails with roofing tar.
- Place and screw down the OSB roof decking. Push the full 7/16 inch OSB sheet to the back, flush with the back siding, fill in with the cut pieces, leave 3/8 inch to the siding at the sides, and drive #9 x 2 inch screws every 6 inches along the edges and rafters, textured side up.
- Tip: Lay the OSB textured side up for better traction on the roof.
- Install the drip edge. Nail one full drip edge strip on the front eave overhang only, trimmed flush with the side walls, then lay the rake drip edges over it and staple them into the 2x4 overhangs.
- Roll out and nail down the synthetic roof underlayment. Roll out the synthetic underlayment and fasten it with plastic cap nails.
- Install the asphalt shingles. Start with a shingle flipped upside down, lighter half along the drip edge. Cut 5 inches off each new layer, nail it over the last and let it hang about 1/2 inch past the overhang. Finish with the darker three-tab half of the shingle, 1/4 inch past the front edge, and seal its nails with roofing tar.
- Tip: Check the shingle maker's instructions before you start.
Step 12: Drill Vent Openings and Install the Wall Vents
Drill the vent holes above the top plate on each side wall and screw on the two vents with the louvre blades pointing down.
- Drill the vent holes in each side wall. Mark each vent just above the top plate and below the rafters, and drill one hole-saw hole for each set of louvre blades.
- Screw on the vents, louvres down. Hold each vent over its holes with the louvre blades pointing down and drive a #8 x 1-1/8 inch screw in every mounting hole.
- Common mistake: Pointing the louvre blades up, which lets rain in.