Refinishing and Painting Kitchen Cabinets
Step-by-step guide made from Kathartic Studios's YouTube video.
A comprehensive guide to transforming outdated, glossy wood kitchen cabinets into a modern, durable, chip-free white finish. This project covers the entire process, from stripping and sanding the old varnish to priming, spray painting with an HVLP gun, and installing new hardware.
- Difficulty: intermediate
Safety
- When using chemical paint strippers, always work in a well-ventilated area (preferably outdoors) and wear chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, and appropriate clothing to protect your skin.
- Always wear a respirator mask when spray painting, even with water-based paints, to avoid inhaling fine paint particles.
Must know before you build
- Consider scuff sanding and BIN shellac primer over stripping for major time savings.
- Old varnish often requires a strong stripper like Klean Strip Premium, not Citristrip.
- Zinsser BIN Shellac-Base Primer is crucial for adhesion and stain-blocking on raw wood.
- An HVLP spray gun with an air compressor is essential for a smooth, professional paint finish.
- Deep clean old hinges with an ultrasonic cleaner and denatured alcohol for smooth operation.
- Use painting pyramids to elevate doors; crucial for even drying and preventing pooling.
Tools
- Chip Brush
- Scrapers (Plastic and Metal)
- Wire Brush
- Paint Brush and Roller
- HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun (Paint Sprayer, Central Pneumatic, 20oz)
- Air Compressor
- Spray Tent (Wagner) (optional)
- Ultrasonic Cleaner (Jewelry Cleaner) (optional)
- Drill (Cordless Drill/Driver, DeWalt)
- Painting Pyramids
Materials
- Paint & Varnish Stripping Gel (Stripping Gel, Citristrip)
- Premium Stripper (Gel Stripper, Klean Strip, Fast, Paste, Non-Methylene Chloride Formula, 1 Gallon (3.78L))
- Paint Stripper After Wash (Cleaning Solvent, Klean Strip, Paint Stripper Remover, 1 Quart (946 mL))
- Sandpaper (180 grit)
- Wood Filler
- BIN Shellac-Base Primer (Shellac-Based Primer, Zinsser)
- Sandpaper (220 grit)
- Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel (Water-Based Enamel Paint, Sherwin Williams, Semi-Gloss, Pure White (SW 7005))
- Sandpaper (400 grit)
- Gold Bar Pulls (Cabinet Hardware, gold)
- Silicone Lubricant (Spray Lubricant, Blaster)
Step by step
Step 1: Strip, Sand, and Prep Cabinet Doors
Apply a chemical stripper to the cabinet doors to remove the old varnish, scrape off the residue, clean the surface with an after-wash product, and then sand the bare wood smooth with 180-grit sandpaper.
- Apply Chemical Stripper. In a well-ventilated area, apply a thick coat of gel stripper to the cabinet doors using a chip brush. For stubborn finishes, you can cover the stripper with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out while it works.
- Tip: If the first stripper isn't strong enough for an old, thick varnish, don't hesitate to switch to a more powerful product.
- Scrape Off Old Varnish. Once the varnish has bubbled and softened, use a combination of plastic and metal scrapers to remove the bulk of the finish. Use a wire brush to get into the detailed grooves and corners.
- Clean and Neutralize the Wood. After scraping, wipe the doors down with a paint stripper after-wash or mineral spirits to remove any remaining chemical residue and prepare the wood for sanding.
- Sand the Bare Wood. Sand all surfaces of the bare wood with 180-grit sandpaper. This removes any final traces of finish and creates a smooth, porous surface for the primer to adhere to.
- Fill Imperfections. Inspect the doors for any deep scratches, dings, or gouges. Apply wood filler or Bondo to these areas, let it dry completely, and then sand it flush with the surrounding wood.
- Watch out: Chemical strippers are caustic. Always work in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate personal protective equipment like gloves and safety glasses.
Step 2: Roll/Brush on Primer
Apply a shellac-based primer to all cabinet surfaces using a brush and roller to ensure proper adhesion and block stains, then lightly sand the dried primer with 220-grit sandpaper for a smooth base.
- Apply Primer Coat. Using a high-quality brush for details and a small roller for flat areas, apply a full coat of shellac-based primer to the cabinet boxes and both sides of the doors. Allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Tip: Using a shellac-based primer like BIN is crucial when painting white over raw wood to prevent wood tannins from bleeding through and causing yellow stains.
- Sand the Primer. Once the primer is fully dry, lightly sand all surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper. This will knock down any texture from the brush or roller and create an ultra-smooth base for the paint. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth or damp rag.
Step 3: Spray Paint with HVLP
Set up a spray tent, thin and strain the urethane enamel paint, and apply multiple light coats to the cabinet doors using an HVLP sprayer, allowing for drying time and sanding between coats for a professional finish.
- Prepare Paint and Sprayer. Thoroughly stir the urethane enamel paint. Strain it through a paint strainer to remove any clumps, and thin it slightly with water (if needed) to achieve the correct viscosity for your HVLP spray gun.
- Spray the Doors. In a dust-free spray tent or protected area, apply a light, even coat of paint to the cabinet doors. Start with the backs, let them dry, then flip and paint the fronts. Apply 2-3 coats for full coverage, allowing adequate drying time between each.
- Tip: Apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat to avoid drips and runs.
- Tip: To save time, paint the backs of the doors with one fewer coat than the fronts. The backs get two coats of paint, while the fronts get three.
- Sand Between Coats. After each coat of paint is completely dry, lightly sand the surfaces with a fine-grit sandpaper (400-grit or higher). This removes any dust nibs or imperfections and helps the next coat adhere better, resulting in a smoother finish. Wipe all dust away before applying the next coat.
- Watch out: Always wear a respirator when spray painting to protect your lungs from fine paint particles.
Step 4: Reassembly & Hardware
Thoroughly clean and lubricate the original hinges, measure and drill holes for new handles, install the new hardware, and carefully re-hang the fully cured cabinet doors.
- Clean and Restore Hinges. Soak the original hinges in denatured alcohol or a degreaser to remove old varnish and grime. An ultrasonic cleaner can speed up this process. Once clean and dry, apply a silicone lubricant to the moving parts to ensure they operate smoothly.
- Measure and Drill for New Handles. Carefully measure and mark the placement for the new handles on the cabinet doors. To prevent the new paint from chipping, place a piece of painter's tape over the spot before drilling the holes.
- Tip: Using a cabinet hardware jig can help ensure all your handles are installed consistently and perfectly straight.
- Install Hardware and Rehang Doors. Attach the new handles and knobs to the doors. Carefully re-install the cleaned hinges and hang the doors back on the cabinet boxes. Adjust the hinges as needed to ensure the doors are level and have even gaps.
- Watch out: Wait at least a few days after the final coat of paint before reassembling. The paint needs time to cure and harden to resist scratches and dings.