Restoring a Wood Table with a Natural Finish
Step-by-step guide made from Kathartic Studios's YouTube video.
This project details the restoration of a solid wood dining table. The process involves stripping an old, poorly applied stain, sanding the piece down to bare wood, and then applying a multi-step finish including bleaching and a milk paint wash to achieve a light, neutral, and natural wood look.
- Difficulty: intermediate
Safety
- Sanding creates fine wood dust that is harmful to inhale. Always wear a high-quality respirator and safety glasses.
- Use chemical-resistant gloves and ensure adequate ventilation when working with bleach, as the fumes can be hazardous.
Must know before you build
- Confirm solid wood, not veneer, by checking weight, edges, and non-repeating grain.
- Bleach 50/50 with water to effectively lighten wood and neutralize orange tones.
- Achieve smooth polyurethane with foam roller and brush 'rolling and tipping' technique.
- Apply durable polyurethane to tabletop; use soft-touch wax for the table base.
- Use a sanding sponge for hand-sanding curved and grooved areas thoroughly.
- Milk paint wash tones wood; use diluted green-undertone stain to counter orange.
Tools
- Orbital Sander (Random-orbital sander, Makita)
- Respirator
- Safety Goggles
- Ear Protection
- Sanding Sponge (optional)
- Paintbrush (Synthetic brush)
- Foam Roller (Small) (optional)
Materials
- TSP Alternative (Cleaner, Fusion, 250 ml)
- Sandpaper (80 grit)
- Household Bleach (Clorox)
- Milk Paint (2 tbsp, Shackteau Interiors, Sea Smoke)
- Milk Paint (2 tbsp, Shackteau Interiors, Magnolia Pier)
- Water-Based Polyurethane (Varathane, Triple Thick, Satin)
- Finishing Wax (Protective Topcoat, Jolie, Clear)
Step by step
Step 1: Clean the Table
The table is thoroughly cleaned with a TSP alternative to remove dirt and grime before sanding.
- Scrub with TSP Alternative. Using a sponge and a bucket of TSP alternative solution, scrub down all surfaces of the table, including the top, base, and legs, to remove any built-up grime.
- Tip: Always clean your piece thoroughly before sanding to prevent pushing dirt and oils into the wood grain.
Step 2: Sand to Bare Wood
The old finish and stain are completely removed from the tabletop and base using an orbital sander and hand sanding to expose the bare wood.
- Sand Flat Surfaces. Using an orbital sander with 80-grit sandpaper, sand the entire tabletop to remove the old, sticky stain and reveal the bare wood underneath.
- Watch out: Sanding is a long process; remember to take breaks to avoid fatigue.
- Sand the Base and Edges. Continue using the orbital sander on the flat and gently curved parts of the table base and the edge of the tabletop. For detailed grooves and tight corners, switch to hand-sanding with 80-grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding sponge.
- Tip: An alternative to sanding is using a chemical stripper like Citristrip, which can lift the old finish off. However, it can be messy and time-consuming in its own way.
- Watch out: Always wear a respirator, eye protection, and ear protection when using a power sander.
Step 3: Bleach the Wood
A 50/50 mixture of household bleach and water is applied to the wood to lighten it and remove orange tones.
- Mix and Apply Bleach Solution. In a bucket, mix regular household bleach and water in a 50/50 ratio. Using a paintbrush, apply the solution evenly across all the sanded wood surfaces of the table.
- Watch out: Wear gloves and ensure good ventilation when working with bleach.
- Let Dry and Reapply. Allow the bleach solution to dry completely in the sun. Apply a second coat to further lighten the wood and reduce the orange tones, letting it dry for at least an hour.
- Tip: Applying two coats of the bleach solution can provide a more significant lightening effect and better tone neutralization.
Step 4: Apply a Milk Paint Wash
A thin wash of two different milk paint colors is mixed and applied to the entire table to create a uniform, aged, and neutral wood tone.
- Mix the Milk Paint Wash. Create a very thin wash by mixing two tablespoons of 'Magnolia Pier' and two tablespoons of 'Sea Smoke' milk paint powder with about 1.5 to 2 cups of water. The ratio should be approximately 5 parts water to 1 part powder.
- Apply the Wash. Using a paintbrush, apply the milk paint wash evenly over all surfaces of the table base and top. The wash is thin enough to be absorbed directly into the bare wood without needing to be wiped back.
- Tip: Applying a wash like this to bare wood allows it to act as a stain, soaking into the pores and adding character without covering the grain.
Step 5: Seal the Finish
The tabletop is sealed with water-based polyurethane for durability, and the base is sealed with clear finishing wax for a natural feel.
- Seal Tabletop with Polyurethane. Apply a water-based polyurethane to the tabletop. Use a 'rolling and tipping' technique: first, roll on the polyurethane with a small foam roller to get an even coat, then immediately and lightly drag a synthetic brush over the surface to smooth out any bubbles and create a flawless finish.
- Tip: Water-based polyurethane is a good choice for light-colored wood as it doesn't yellow over time like oil-based alternatives.
- Seal Base with Finishing Wax. Apply a clear finishing wax to the table base and legs using a wax brush. After application, use a lint-free cloth to rub the wax into the wood, which gives it a soft, natural, and protective finish.
- Tip: For an extra stunning sheen on a waxed surface, try buffing it with an old pair of nylons after it has cured.