Cedar Fence Picket Raised Planter Bed
Step-by-step guide made from EmyLuDesigns's YouTube video.
Build an elevated waist-height garden planter box using 6-inch and 3-inch cedar fence pickets reinforced with a pressure-treated 2x2 and 2x4 internal frame. The finished planter features L-shaped corner legs, a 45-degree mitered top trim, drainage holes, exterior waterproofing, and a stapled weed barrier liner.
The full step-by-step Spetz Specs for this project (every part, size, diagram and step, free): Cedar Fence Picket Raised Planter Bed Spetz Specs.
- Difficulty: beginner
Safety
- Wear eye protection when operating the miter saw, drill, and impact driver.
- Keep hands clear of the miter saw blade path and clamp or firmly hold stacked boards when gang-cutting.
Must know before you build
- Combine construction adhesive with exterior screws; nails alone will pull out as cedar weathers.
- Use 1-inch screws when joining picket layers so screw tips do not punch through the outer face.
- Slit the weed barrier liner above the 1/2-inch drainage holes to avoid drowning plant roots.
- Pre-drill with a 9/64-inch bit when screwing into the 2x2 frame or near board edges and knots. For picket-to-picket 1-inch screws, pre-drilling is optional, but avoid countersinking so the thin 1/2-inch cedar does not split.
- Reinforce legs with the 2x4 blocks; wet soil can exceed 300 lbs and collapse the base.
Tools
- Miter saw (cordless sliding compound miter saw, Bosch, BiTurbo Brushless)
- Circular saw (cordless circular saw, Ryobi, Brushless) (optional)
- Tape measure (retractable tape measure)
- Rafter square (rafter / speed square, Milwaukee)
- Pencil and marker (marking tools)
- Cordless drill/driver (Bosch, 18V (CORE 18V))
- Impact driver (cordless impact driver, Bosch, GDX18V-1800C, 18V (CORE 18V))
- 9/64 in drill bit (twist drill bit, 9/64 in)
- 1/2 in drill bit (twist drill bit, 1/2 in)
- Caulking gun (manual caulk/adhesive dispenser, 10 fl oz cartridge size)
- Heavy-duty staple gun (manual heavy-duty staple gun, Arrow)
- Stain pad applicator and tray (paint/stain pad applicator with tray)
Materials
- 6 in cedar fence pickets (12, cedar fence picket, 6 in nominal width, 1/2 in thickness, 6 in wide (5-1/2 in actual) x 1/2 in thick x 6 ft (72 in) long)
- Standard cedar fence pickets (2-3, cedar fence picket, 3 in / 3-1/2 in width, 3 in (or 3-1/2 in) wide x 6 ft long)
- Pressure-treated 2x2 boards (2, pressure-treated lumber, pressure-treated, 2x2 x 8 ft (96 in) long)
- Pressure-treated 2x4 board (1, pressure-treated lumber, pressure-treated, 2x4 x 8 ft (96 in) long)
- 1 in zinc wood screws (100 pack, flat head Phillips zinc wood screws, Everbilt, #8 x 1 in, zinc-plated, #8 x 1 in)
- 2 in exterior screws (exterior wood screws, 2 in exterior, 2 in)
- Heavy duty construction adhesive (2 tubes, exterior construction adhesive, Liquid Nails, Heavy Duty, waterproof and weatherproof, 10.0 fl oz, 10.0 fl oz (295 mL))
- Clear multi-surface waterproofer (1 can, clear exterior wood sealer, Thompson's WaterSeal, 1 gal (3.78 L))
- Weed barrier fabric or plastic liner (landscape weed barrier fabric)
- 1/4 in staples (heavy-duty staples, 1/4 in leg length, 1/4 in)
Step by step
Step 1: Cut and assemble the planter base
Cut seven 6-inch cedar pickets to 48 inches, cut three offcut support cleats to 17-1/2 inches, and glue and screw the cleats across three base boards with a 1/2-inch overhang all around.
- Cut seven 6-inch cedar pickets to 48 inches. Measure, mark, and cut seven 6-inch cedar fence pickets to 48 inches long on the miter saw. Set three boards aside for the base and four boards aside for the two sides, and keep all offcuts.
- Tip: Save all seven offcuts from the 48-inch cuts; they are used to make the base and side support cleats.
- Cut three offcut cleats to 17-1/2 inches. Measure the width of the three base pickets pushed together (about 16-1/2 inches) and cut three of the saved offcuts to 17-1/2 inches so they overhang the base by 1/2 inch on each side.
- Tip: Cutting the base cleats 1 inch wider than the 16-1/2-inch base panel provides a 1/2-inch overhang on both sides for the 1/2-inch-thick side panels to sit on.
- Mark and attach the center base cleat. Mark the 24-inch centerline of the 48-inch base boards, then mark 2-3/4 inches to either side to center the 5-1/2-inch-wide cleat. Apply Liquid Nails, position the cleat with a 1/2-inch overhang at the top and bottom edges, and drive two 1-inch zinc screws into each base board.
- Tip: Measure 2-3/4 inches out from the 24-inch centerline so the 5-1/2-inch-wide middle cleat sits dead center.
- Common mistake: Driving screws too close to the edge of the thin cedar picket, which can split the wood.
- Glue and screw the two end cleats with a 1/2-inch overhang. Apply Liquid Nails to both ends of the base panel, set the two remaining 17-1/2-inch cleats in place with a 1/2-inch overhang on the ends and sides, and fasten them with two 1-inch zinc screws per board.
- Tip: Pre-drill pilot holes if your cedar is dry, and avoid countersinking the 1-inch screws so you don't split the 1/2-inch pickets or poke through the back.
- Common mistake: Countersinking the 1-inch screws into the thin 1/2-inch cedar, which splits the board or drives the tip out the other side.
- Flip the base and drive 1-inch screws from the opposite side. Flip the assembled base panel over and drive 1-inch zinc screws through the three long base boards into the three cleats underneath to sandwich the joint from both sides.
- Tip: Screw from both faces of the panel to sandwich the boards together instead of relying on screws from only one side.
Step 2: Assemble the two side panels
Cut six offcut cleats to 11-3/4 inches and glue and screw three cleats across each pair of 48-inch side boards, keeping the cleats flush at the top, about 3/4 inch past the bottom edge and 1/2 inch past the ends.
- Cut the remaining picket offcuts to 11-3/4 inches. Measure and cut the four remaining picket offcuts in half to 11-3/4 inches on the miter saw, yielding eight pieces total. Select six pieces (three per side panel).
- Tip: Place any dog-eared offcut pieces at the outer ends of the side panels so the corner leg boards will hide the angled corners later.
- Glue and screw the cleats to the first side panel. Lay two 48-inch boards on top of the completed base panel to use its cleats as a visual alignment guide. Glue and screw three 11-3/4-inch cleats onto the side boards using 1-inch screws, keeping the cleats flush with the top edge, about 3/4 inch past the bottom edge and 1/2 inch past the outer ends. The voiceover says "an inch and a half", but the on-screen text corrects it to 1/2 inch.
- Tip: Lay the side boards directly on top of the finished base panel so you can align the center cleat visually without re-measuring.
- Common mistake: Overhanging the side cleats at the top edge instead of keeping them flush, which prevents the mitered top trim from sitting flat.
- Flip the first side panel and assemble the second side panel. Flip the first side panel over and drive 1-inch zinc screws from the inside face into the three cleats. Repeat the entire layout, gluing, and double-sided screwing process for the second side panel.
Step 3: Build and attach the 2x2 interior base frame
Cut treated 2x2s into two 48-inch rails and four 14-inch crossbars, assemble the ladder frame with 2-inch screws, and glue and screw it to the inside face of the base.
- Cut the 2x2 rails and crossbars. Cut one pressure-treated 2x2 into two 48-inch rails, and cut four 14-inch crossbars from the second pressure-treated 2x2 (save the remaining length of 2x2 for the inside corner supports).
- Pre-drill and screw the 2x2 ladder frame together. Lay the two 48-inch rails and four 14-inch crossbars on the base panel, space the crossbars evenly with two flush at the ends and two in the middle, pre-drill through the rails with the 9/64-inch bit, and drive 2-inch exterior screws into each joint.
- Tip: Pre-drill all 2x2 frame joints before driving the 2-inch screws to prevent the narrow 2x2s from splitting.
- Glue and screw the base panel onto the 2x2 frame. Apply Liquid Nails to the top face of the 2x2 frame, place the flat face of the cedar base panel onto the frame (cleats facing up) so the 2x2 frame sits flush with the edges of the three long base boards, and pre-drill and drive 2-inch screws through the double-thick cleat areas and 1-inch screws through the single-thick areas.
- Tip: Use 2-inch screws where you are drilling through both the cleat and base board into the 2x2 frame, and switch to 1-inch screws where you are only drilling through the single base board.
- Tip: Use a speed square against the edge of the panel to project the hidden 2x2 crossbar location across the center cleat before driving screws.
- Common mistake: Attaching the 2x2 frame to the cleat side of the base instead of the flat inside face.
Step 4: Attach the side panels to the base
Rest both side panels on the 1/2-inch base cleat ledges and secure them to the 2x2 base frame using construction adhesive and 2-inch screws.
- Glue and screw the first side panel to the base frame. Apply Liquid Nails along the outer side of the 2x2 base rail and the inner faces of the side panel cleats. Rest the first side panel on the 1/2-inch base cleat ledge with the long boards flush with the ends of the base frame, pre-drill through the cleats into the 2x2 rail, and drive 2-inch exterior screws.
- Tip: Drive 2-inch screws through the double-thick cleat sections (1 inch total cedar thickness) so the screws anchor into the 2x2 rail without poking out the inside.
- Glue and screw the second side panel to the base frame. Apply Liquid Nails along the opposite 2x2 base rail, set the second side panel onto the 1/2-inch cleat ledge flush with the ends of the base, pre-drill through each side cleat into the 2x2 rail, and secure with 2-inch exterior screws.
- Tip: Rest the bottom of the side panel on the 1/2-inch base cleat overhang so you don't have to hold the panel up in mid-air while drilling.
- Tip: You only need to pre-drill through the outer cedar layer so the hole acts as a guide for the screw, not all the way into the 2x2 rail. Drive one screw first to hold the panel in place, then the rest go in much easier.
Step 5: Install the 2x2 inside corner supports
Cut four vertical supports from the remaining 2x2 to sit flush with the top edge of the sides and glue and screw them into each inside corner with 2-inch screws.
- Mark, cut, and install the first corner 2x2 support. Stand the leftover pressure-treated 2x2 inside the first corner on top of the 2x2 base rail, mark it flush with the top edge of the side panel, and cut it on the miter saw. Apply Liquid Nails, position it flush with the end of the side board, pre-drill from the outside through the side cleat, and drive 2-inch exterior screws.
- Tip: Hold the leftover 2x2 directly in place in the corner and mark it flush with the top of the side panel instead of measuring with a tape measure.
- Cut and install the remaining three inside corner supports. Mark and cut three more vertical supports from the remaining 2x2 to match the remaining three inside corners. Apply Liquid Nails to each piece, set it into its corner flush with the end of the side panel, pre-drill from the outside, and fasten with 2-inch exterior screws.
Step 6: Cut and attach the end panels
Cut four 17-5/8-inch boards from a 6-inch cedar picket and glue and screw two boards onto each end of the box using 1-inch screws.
- Cut four 17-5/8-inch end boards from one 6-inch picket. Measure, mark with a square, and cut four 17-5/8-inch pieces from a single 6-inch cedar picket on the miter saw.
- Test-fit, glue, and screw the first end panel. Dry-fit two 17-5/8-inch boards into one end of the box between the overhanging side cleats. Apply Liquid Nails along the 2x2 corner posts, bottom rail, and inside faces of the overhanging side cleats, press the two end boards into place, and drive 1-inch zinc screws through the end boards into the 2x2 corner posts.
- Tip: Test-fit the 17-5/8-inch end boards before applying glue, as fence picket thickness and shrinkage can vary slightly.
- Glue and screw the second end panel. Apply Liquid Nails to the opposite end frame, set the remaining two 17-5/8-inch boards in place, and fasten with 1-inch zinc screws through the end boards into the 2x2 corner posts.
- Tip: Use just one screw per end board to hold it while the glue sets if you are adding legs next, since the 2-inch leg screws will also pass through these corners.
Step 7: Cut and attach the L-shaped leg frames
Cut eight 28-inch boards from the remaining four 6-inch pickets, flip the box upside down, and glue and screw two boards in an overlapping L-shape at each corner.
- Cut eight 28-inch leg boards from the last four 6-inch pickets. Measure, mark, and cut two 28-inch pieces from each of the remaining four 6-inch cedar pickets on the miter saw for a total of eight 28-inch leg boards.
- Tip: If you prefer a ground-level planter box instead of a waist-height raised bed, you can skip the legs (Steps 7 and 8) and go straight to installing the mitered top trim in Step 9.
- Flip the box and attach the first two L-shaped corner legs. Flip the planter box upside down. At each of the first two corners, glue and screw a 28-inch leg board onto the side cleat flush with the top rim and end of the box using 2-inch screws, then glue and screw the mating 28-inch leg board onto the end of the box so its outer edge overlaps and sits flush with the face of the first leg board. Pre-drill and drive 2-inch screws through the overlapping leg edges.
- Tip: Install the side leg board flush with the end of the box first, then overlap the end leg board flush with the outer face of the side leg to form a rigid L-shape.
- Attach the remaining two L-shaped corner legs. Repeat the gluing, alignment, pre-drilling, and 2-inch screwing process to install the L-shaped leg pairs on the remaining two corners of the box.
Step 8: Cut and install the 2x4 inner leg supports
Cut four 16-1/8-inch blocks from the treated 2x4 and glue and screw one block inside each L-shaped leg against the underside of the box using 2-inch screws.
- Measure and cut four 2x4 inner leg support blocks. Measure the inside of the leg from the underside of the base cleat to the bottom of the leg (about 16-1/8 inches) and cut four blocks from the pressure-treated 2x4 on the miter saw.
- Tip: The 2x4 inner leg blocks do not need an exact length as long as they butt tightly against the underside of the box and do not extend past the bottom of the cedar legs.
- Glue and screw the 2x4 blocks inside each leg. Apply Liquid Nails to one face and one edge of each 2x4 block, press it tightly into the inside corner of each L-shaped leg against the underside of the box, and drive 2-inch exterior screws through the outside of the cedar leg boards into the 2x4.
Step 9: Cut and attach the mitered top trim
Cut 45-degree mitered frame pieces from the 3-1/2-inch cedar pickets to fit the top rim of the box and attach them with construction adhesive and 2-inch screws.
- Cut the two long 45-degree mitered top trim rails. Stand the planter upright. Cut the dog-eared end off a 3-1/2-inch cedar picket at a 45-degree angle, lay it along the top rim so the inside heel of the miter aligns with the inside corner of the box, and mark the opposite inside corner. Use a speed square to draw the opposing 45-degree line, cut the rail on the miter saw, and use it as a template to mark and cut the second long rail.
- Tip: Use the first cut long trim rail as a template to trace the exact length and 45-degree angles onto the second long rail.
- Tip: Two 3-1/2-inch cedar pickets are enough for the entire top trim; save the offcuts from the two long rails to cut the two short end trim pieces.
- Cut, glue, and screw the first end trim and both long trim rails. Lay the two long trim rails on the box. Cut a 45-degree miter on one of the remaining picket pieces, align it against the miter of the long rail on one end, mark the opposite inside corner, and cut the opposing 45-degree miter. Apply Liquid Nails to the top rim and fasten the end trim and both long rails with 2-inch screws into the 2x2 corner posts and side cleats.
- Mark, cut, and attach the final end trim piece. Lay the remaining 45-degree mitered picket piece across the open end of the box, trace the exact miter line directly off the installed long rail, and cut it on the miter saw. Apply Liquid Nails to the top rim, set the trim piece in place, and secure it with 2-inch screws.
- Tip: Mark the final short trim piece directly in place against the installed long rails to get a tight custom fit.
Step 10: Drill drainage holes, seal the wood, and install the liner
Drill 1/2-inch drainage holes through the base boards, coat the exterior with clear waterproofer, and staple weed barrier fabric inside the planter box.
- Drill 1/2-inch drainage holes in the base. Chuck the 1/2-inch twist bit into the drill and drill multiple drainage holes through each of the three open bays of the cedar base panel.
- Apply clear waterproofer to the exterior wood. Pour Thompson's WaterSeal Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer into a paint tray and apply an even coat over the exterior cedar surfaces using a stain pad applicator.
- Tip: Use a clear waterproofer like Thompson's WaterSeal to keep the natural cedar color, or apply any exterior wood stain of your choice as long as the wood is sealed for outdoor use.
- Staple the weed barrier liner inside the box. Roll out the weed barrier fabric or plastic liner inside the planter box, press it into the bottom and corners, fold the top edges neatly under the top trim lip, and secure it all the way around with a heavy-duty staple gun and 1/4-inch staples.
- Tip: If you find it cramped to staple the liner under the top trim, you can staple the liner in before attaching the mitered top trim.
- Common mistake: Forgetting to punch drainage holes through a non-porous plastic liner so water can reach the 1/2-inch holes drilled in the wood base.