DIY Vertical Shiplap Wall Paneling

Step 1: Prepare the Walls

The drywall is fully finished: taped, mudded, sanded smooth, and optionally primed, ready for planks.

Watch this step (0:45)

You'll need: Primer

1. 1.1 Finish the Drywall
   • Check every seam is taped, has at least two coats of joint compound and is sanded smooth.
   • Fill dents, screw pops or imperfections with joint compound; sand flush once dry.
   • Apply one or two coats of primer to bare drywall if desired; this helps paint adhesion and seals gaps between planks.
   • Let the primer dry fully before the planks.

• Tip: Priming now seals the visible wall inside gaps, saving effort during final painting.

Before you move on: Run a hand across the wall: it should feel smooth with no ridges, bumps or loose tape.

Step 2: Cut the Plywood Planks

Rip all plywood sheets into uniform 5 1/4 in wide × 8 ft long planks.

Watch this step (0:54)

Parts in this step: (A) Plywood shiplap plank

You'll need: Table Saw, Sawhorses, Poplar Plywood

1. 2.1 Set Up for Cutting
   • Position the table saw with sawhorses or outfeed support so a full 4×8 sheet feeds without tipping.
   • Set and lock the table saw fence to 5 1/4 in.
   • Test-cut a scrap to check the width first.
2. 2.2 Rip Plywood into Planks
   • Steadily feed the 4×8 plywood sheet (A) through the table saw, factory edge against the fence.
   • Repeat across the full sheet; each 4×8 sheet yields nine planks at 5 1/4 in wide, accounting for saw blade kerf.
   • Stack planks flat or lean them against a wall; keep dry and out of direct sunlight.
   • For 8 ft ceilings, the full 8 ft plank length works without cross-cuts.

Key measurements

• 5 1/4 in plank width
• 8 ft plank length
• 5 mm (3/16 in) plywood thickness
• 9 planks per 4×8 sheet

• Tip: Use a push stick for the final narrow strip to keep hands away from the blade.
• Tip: An outfeed helper makes handling full sheets easier and safer.
• Heads up: Always wear eye and hearing protection when operating the table saw.

Before you move on: Measure several planks from different sheets: all should be 5 1/4 in within 1/16 in.

Step 3: Install the Planks

Glue and nail every plank plumb, with even spacer gaps across the surface.

Watch this step (1:35)

Parts in this step: (A) Plywood shiplap plank

You'll need: Brad Nailer, Air Compressor, Caulking Gun, Laser Level, Table Saw, Construction Adhesive, Brad Nails, Tile Spacers, Poplar Plywood

1. 3.1 Apply Construction Adhesive
   • Load the caulking gun with DAP Dynagrip construction adhesive.
   • Apply a continuous zigzag or S-shaped adhesive bead down the back of the plank (A), staying about 1 in from edges to prevent squeeze-out.
   • Glue one plank at a time; never pre-glue several, the adhesive skins over.
2. 3.2 Position and Secure the First Plank
   • Press the first plank (A) tight into the starting corner.
   • Align the plank with the laser level's plumb line from floor to ceiling.
   • Shoot brad nails through the face of the plank into the drywall, spacing them roughly every 12–16 in up the length; the nails hold the plank while the adhesive cures.
   • Check plumb again after nailing; adjust immediately if needed before the adhesive grabs.
3. 3.3 Continue Installing Planks with Spacers
   • Apply adhesive to the next plank (A) as in sub-step 3.1.
   • Place tile spacers along the installed plank to set the gap, then press the new plank against them.
   • Secure the plank with brad nails through its face, spaced every 12–16 in.
   • Remove tile spacers once nailed and move them to the next joint.
   • Repeat for every remaining plank.

Key measurements

• 5 1/4 in plank width
• Tile spacer width gap between planks

• Tip: Tile spacers keep every gap uniform; do not eyeball it.
• Tip: Because planks run vertically, studs are not reliably behind every plank; the construction adhesive is the primary bond, and brad nails hold the plank while it cures.
• Tip: Alternatively, paint the wall the final color before the planks, so you only paint the plank faces afterward.
• Heads up: Construction adhesive creates a permanent bond: planks will be difficult to remove later and likely damage the drywall.
• Heads up: Planks glued without brad nails can slide before the adhesive sets; always nail each plank immediately.

Before you move on: Sight down the wall: every plank edge should be straight and parallel, gaps uniform, and no plank tilted or bowed.

Step 4: Prepare for Paint

Fill, dry and sand flush every brad nail hole; the plank faces are smooth and ready for primer.

Watch this step (2:30)

You'll need: Putty Knife, Spackling

1. 4.1 Fill Nail Holes
   • Press DAP DryDex spackle into each brad nail hole with the putty knife.
   • Scrape the putty knife flat across the plank to remove excess spackle and leave the fill flush.
   • Let the spackle dry completely; DryDex turns white when dry (it starts pink).
   • Sand each filled spot with fine-grit sandpaper (150–220 grit) until smooth.
   • Wipe dust off planks with a dry cloth or tack cloth before priming.

• Tip: Skipping this leaves visible dimples showing through the paint; fill every hole.
• Tip: Work from one end to the other so you do not miss holes.

Before you move on: Run a fingertip over each filled spot; it should feel flush with the plank.

Step 5: Prime and Paint the Shiplap

The entire shiplap surface, plank faces, edges, and gaps, is sealed with one coat of primer and two coats of wall paint in a smooth finish.

Watch this step (2:45)

Parts in this step: (A) Plywood shiplap plank

You'll need: Paint Sprayer, Paint Roller, Paint Brush, Primer, Wall Paint

1. 5.1 Apply Primer
   • Apply one coat of KILZ 2 All-Purpose primer to the entire shiplap surface, including inside the gaps.
   • A paint sprayer speeds this up, but a roller for faces and a brush for gaps works well.
   • Check primer reaches exposed plywood edges inside the gaps; unsealed edges are vulnerable to moisture.
   • Let the primer dry fully before painting (follow the primer can's dry-time instructions).
2. 5.2 Paint the Gaps and Surface
   • Use a small paint brush to work the first coat of Sherwin Williams Cashmere (Agreeable Gray, Satin) into every gap between planks.
   • Immediately follow with a paint roller on the flat plank faces for a smooth, consistent finish.
   • Let the first coat dry per the paint can's instructions, then apply a second coat using the same brush-then-roller method.
   • Check plywood surfaces and edges are fully sealed with paint; this plywood is very water-sensitive and must be completely coated, especially in kitchens or bathrooms.

Key measurements

• 1 coat primer
• 2 coats wall paint

• Tip: If you painted the wall the final color before installing planks, you only need to paint the plank faces and touch up the gaps, saving time.
• Tip: Brush the gaps first, then roll the faces while the gap paint is wet for a seamless look.
• Heads up: The 5 mm poplar plywood is very sensitive to water; do not leave raw edges or surfaces unsealed, or it may warp or delaminate.

Before you move on: Inspect the wall in raking light (a flashlight held at a low angle); look for missed spots, thin coverage, or lap marks, especially inside gaps.

Step 6: Install Trim and Finishing Touches

Baseboards are installed, outlets and switches have new cover plates, completing the wall.

Watch this step (3:38)

Parts in this step: (B) Baseboards

You'll need: Brad Nailer, Air Compressor, Putty Knife, Baseboards, Spackling, Brad Nails

1. 6.1 Install Baseboards
   • Measure, cut, and install new bright white baseboards (B) along the bottom of every shiplap wall for a clean transition.
   • Secure baseboards with brad nails or finish nails into the framing or drywall.
   • Fill baseboard nail holes with spackle, let dry, sand smooth, and touch up with paint.
   • Install new outlet covers and light-switch plates for a finished look.

• Tip: Updating outlet and switch covers to match the new wall color or style completes the look.