Utility Pole Foot Bridge with 2x6 Wood Decking

Step 1: Reinforce the Bank and Set Foundation Cap Blocks

Armor the slope against washout and cap both cinder block foundations for the utility poles.

Watch this step (2:30)

Parts in this step: (E) Foundation base cinder block, (F) Solid concrete cap block

You'll need: Compact utility tractor with front-end loader, Pallet forks attachment, String line, Sledgehammer, Shovel, Cinder blocks, Asphalt millings and fill dirt, Hardened concrete bags, Solid concrete cap blocks

1. 1.1 Bring in hardened concrete bags and place them on the bank slope
   • Move hardened concrete bags to the bank on the tractor pallet forks.
   • Lay the bags down the front slope of the asphalt milling mound before decking.
   • Cover exposed ditch-face fill so runoff cannot wash out the foundation.
2. 1.2 Set solid concrete cap blocks on both cinder block foundations
   • Set three pairs of solid concrete cap blocks (F) atop near-bank foundation base cinder blocks (E).
   • The 16 x 8 x 2 in cap block cut-list dimensions are estimated.
   • Align the three cap block pairs with the three poles along the 5-foot trench.
   • Test-fit four far-bank cap blocks (F), then substitute a pressure-treated wood top plate.

Key measurements

• Foundation width: 5 ft (60 in) across 4 vertical cinder blocks per bank
• Cap block dimensions: 16 x 8 x 2 in (estimated, not stated in the sources)

• Tip: Install erosion control on the foundation mound face before decking, while access is open.
• Tip: Use solid cap blocks on top of vertical cinder blocks to distribute the heavy point load of the utility poles and adjust for minor elevation differences between banks.

Before you move on: Check both capped foundations sit level and match the string line elevation across the ditch.

Step 2: Move and Position the Utility Pole Girders

Stage all three utility poles and hoist them across onto both bank foundations.

Watch this step (4:00)

Parts in this step: (A) Outer utility pole girder, (B) Center utility pole girder

You'll need: Compact utility tractor with front-end loader, Pallet forks attachment, Log chains, Cant hook, Spirit level, Utility poles, Solid concrete cap blocks

1. 2.1 Stage the utility poles near the ditch with pallet forks
   • Slide tractor pallet forks under the two outer utility pole girders (A) and center girder (B).
   • Lift, spin, and push all three poles into staging by the ditch.
   • Turn curved poles crown-up before rigging the chains.
2. 2.2 Hoist and set the first outer utility pole across the ditch
   • Lock both pallet forks together with a log chain as a boom lift point.
   • Chain the first 14-to-15-inch outer utility pole girder (A) and pull it across the ditch.
   • Hoist the near end onto outer cap blocks (F), drive across, and set the far end on the top plate.
   • Align after setting all three poles so later lifts do not bump it.
3. 2.3 Push and hoist the center utility pole into position
   • Push the 12-to-13-inch center girder (B) across the ditch with the loader.
   • Hoist both ends of center pole (B) onto middle supports with the chained forks.
   • Rig and hoist the second outer girder (A) onto the opposite edge of the 5-foot foundations.
   • Roll poles into alignment with a cant hook; let rain settle the foundations before shimming.

Key measurements

• Outer pole diameter: 14 to 15 in at thick end, ~2 in taper over ~19 ft
• Center pole diameter: 12 to 13 in across ~19 ft (~228 in) span
• Outer pole spacing: 5 ft outside-to-outside, flush with the cinder block foundations

• Tip: Stage all three utility poles right next to the ditch before parking the tractor on the opposite bank to hoist them across.
• Tip: Chain both pallet forks together when lifting heavy loads from one fork tip.
• Tip: Set all three poles across the ditch before aligning with a cant hook, or setting the others may bump the first.
• Tip: Let a rainstorm settle the ground and foundation millings under the utility poles before shimming the deck framing.
• Heads up: Stand clear of suspended utility poles when lifting with pallet forks and chains in case a chain slips or a pole shifts.

Before you move on: Check settled poles sit stable on the cap blocks and top plate with a spirit level.

Step 3: Stage Lumber and Attach Initial 2x6 Runners

Position the lumber trailer beside the bridge and build three shimmed, level 2x6 runners atop the utility poles.

Watch this step (8:55)

Parts in this step: (C) Lengthwise leveling runner ply

You'll need: Compact utility tractor with front-end loader, 3-point hitch trailer mover, Utility trailer, Spirit level, Cordless impact driver, 2x6 pressure-treated boards, Wood shims and scrap strips, Exterior screws

1. 3.1 Back the lumber trailer up to the bridge site
   • Mount the tractor's 3-point hitch trailer mover and back the loaded utility trailer to the bridge.
   • Chock trailer tires on slopes before uncoupling or working.
   • Lower the trailer ramp for a level workstation by the ditch.
2. 3.2 Stack, shim and level the 2x6 runners on the poles
   • Lay the first layer of leveling runner plies (C) flat along all three poles.
   • Space outer runners (C) 4 feet apart outside-to-outside for a mower and golf cart wheelbase.
   • Stack runner plies (C): two on the far outer pole, three on the center and near outer poles.
   • Wedge wood shims between plies for pole taper and crown until all three runners read level.
   • Drive 3-inch or 3-1/2-inch exterior screws through each ply; add temporary cross braces so poles cannot roll.

Key measurements

• Outer 2x6 runner span: 4 ft (48 in) outside-to-outside
• Runner ply stack: 3 plies on near outer and center poles, 2 plies on far outer pole

• Tip: Use a tractor 3-point hitch trailer mover to maneuver a loaded lumber trailer into tight wooded areas.
• Tip: Screw temporary cross braces across the runners so the round poles cannot roll out of square before decking.
• Heads up: Chock trailer tires when uncoupling or parking on uneven ground.

Before you move on: Check all three runners read level lengthwise and across the span with a spirit level.

Step 4: Cut and Dry-Fit the 2x6 Deck Boards

Cut 6-foot 2x6 deck planks, trim protruding shims, and dry-fit planks across the runners.

Watch this step (12:19)

Parts in this step: (D) Deck plank

You'll need: Sliding compound miter saw, Miter saw stand, Utility knife, 2x6 pressure-treated boards, Wood shims and scrap strips

1. 4.1 Cut the 2x6 deck boards to length and lay them across the runners
   • Set the sliding compound miter saw on the miter saw stand by the bridge.
   • Crosscut 42 deck planks (D) to 72 inches (6 feet) from 2x6 pressure-treated boards.
   • Lay cut deck planks (D) side-by-side across the three runners (C) around the temporary braces.
2. 4.2 Score and snap protruding shims and finish dry-fitting the deck
   • Score protruding wood shims along the runners (C) with a utility knife.
   • Snap scored shim ends flush with the runners; save offcuts for reuse.
   • Remove temporary cross braces as you lay out remaining deck planks (D).

Key measurements

• Deck plank length: 6 ft (72 in) crosscut on miter saw

• Tip: Cut and dry-fit deck boards across the runners first to align and fasten them in one pass.
• Tip: Save snapped-off wood shim ends to reuse on the framing.
• Heads up: Wear eye and hearing protective equipment when using the miter saw.

Before you move on: Check all 42 deck planks lie flat across the three runners without rocking.

Step 5: Fasten the Deck Boards

Align 6-foot deck planks with a 1-foot overhang on both sides and screw to the three runners.

Watch this step (13:33)

Parts in this step: (D) Deck plank

You'll need: Cordless impact driver, Speed square, 2x6 pressure-treated boards, Exterior screws

1. 5.1 Align the deck boards with a spacer jig and screw the first half down
   • Flip each deck plank (D) so heavy knots or cup face down toward the ditch.
   • Hold a 1-foot scrap spacer jig against outer runner (C) to set a 1-foot overhang on both sides.
   • Square the first plank with a speed square; drive two 3-inch or 3-1/2-inch exterior screws per runner.
   • Offset a screw if the tip hits a buried runner screw head.
2. 5.2 Fasten the remaining deck boards to the end of the bridge
   • Slide each deck plank (D) snug against the last and set its overhang with the spacer jig.
   • Drive six exterior screws per plank, two into each of the three runners (C) to the bridge end.

Key measurements

• Deck overhang: ~1 ft (~12 in) past the outside face of each outer runner on both sides

• Tip: Use a scrap block as a spacing jig against the outer runner for an even overhang on both sides without measuring.
• Tip: Orient deck boards with knots and cup facing down.

Before you move on: Check every plank has two screws seated in all three runners with no protruding heads.

Step 6: Snap a Chalk Line and Trim the Deck Edges

Trim both overhanging deck plank edges straight and flush.

Watch this step (15:29)

Parts in this step: (D) Deck plank

You'll need: Chalk line, Cordless circular saw, 2x6 pressure-treated boards

1. 6.1 Snap a chalk line and rip the overhanging deck board ends flush
   • Stretch a chalk line along the overhanging deck plank (D) ends from end to end.
   • Snap a cut line along both outer edges of the 6-foot deck.
   • Guide a cordless circular saw along both chalk lines to rip the plank ends flush.

Key measurements

• Finished deck width: ~6 ft (~72 in) after trimming overhanging ends flush

• Tip: Install deck boards slightly long, then snap a chalk line and trim all ends at once with a circular saw for a straight edge.
• Heads up: Wear eye and hearing protective equipment when ripping deck edges with the circular saw.

Before you move on: Sight down both cut edges to check for a straight line with no uncut ends.

Step 7: Backfill the Bridge Approach and Clean the Deck

Backfill and pack the approach ramp with asphalt millings, then blow the deck clean.

Watch this step (15:36)

You'll need: Compact utility tractor with front-end loader, Shovel, Cordless leaf blower, Asphalt millings and fill dirt

1. 7.1 Dump two loader buckets of asphalt millings and dirt at the bridge approach
   • Switch the tractor front-end loader from pallet forks to the bucket attachment.
   • Dump two loader buckets of asphalt millings and fill dirt against the exposed bridge end.
2. 7.2 Grade and tamp the approach ramp with a shovel
   • Spread the millings and fill dirt across the 6-foot width with a shovel.
   • Grade and tamp the transition ramp flush with the top of end deck plank (D).
3. 7.3 Blow sawdust and dirt off the finished deck
   • Clear sawdust, shim scraps and loose dirt off the bridge with a cordless leaf blower.

• Tip: Pack asphalt millings tightly against the bridge timbers for a smooth ramp that helps lock the structure in place.
• Heads up: Do not drive the compact utility tractor onto the bridge deck when dumping fill at the approach.

Before you move on: Walk both approaches to check the fill is tightly packed and flush with the end planks.