Sewer Grinder Pump Installation and Plumbing Hookup

Step 1: Excavate the Pump Pit and Trench

A deep pit sits outside the foundation sewer sleeve; the discharge trench is open, with all buried utilities identified.

Watch this step (2:49)

Parts in this step: (C) HDPE discharge pipe

You'll need: Backhoe loader, Round-point shovel

1. 1.1 Excavate the pit outside the foundation sewer sleeve
   • Dig the pit with a backhoe directly in front of the house sewer sleeve.
   • Over-dig depth by 6 to 10 in beyond the final basin seat elevation.
   • The extra depth gets filled back with compacted #53 crushed stone.
   • Account for 1/8 in per foot of fall on the 4 to 5 ft gravity inlet run when setting pit depth.
2. 1.2 Excavate the initial discharge trench and verify buried drain depth
   • Dig the first section of discharge trench leading away from the pit.
   • Expose intersecting gravity drain lines now, before the pump is in the way.
   • Confirm the trench provides at least 44 in of cover for the HDPE discharge line.
   • Mark the trench route toward the sewer manhole for later trenching.

Key measurements

• Pit over-dig: 6 to 10 in below final basin seat
• Inlet slope: 1/8 in per foot over 4 to 5 ft run (about 1/2 in total fall)
• Discharge trench cover: 44 in minimum

• Tip: Over-dig, not under-dig: adding gravel is easier than re-excavating.
• Tip: Uncover intersecting drain lines before backfilling so you don't break them later.
• Heads up: Locate all buried utilities and drain lines before excavating.
• Heads up: Keep heavy equipment clear of trench edges; do not enter unshored deep trenches.

Before you move on: Pit depth: 6 to 10 in of gravel plus basin height puts the inlet at the correct elevation below the sewer sleeve.

Step 2: Prepare the Gravel Base and Clean the Sewer Sleeve

A compacted 10-inch #53 stone pad sits at the correct elevation; the sewer sleeve is clean and ready for solvent welding.

Watch this step (4:04)

You'll need: Compact utility tractor, Hand tamper, Spirit level, Round-point shovel, Steel wool, #53 crushed stone, PVC pipe cleaner

1. 2.1 Dump and tamp the #53 crushed stone pad and check pipe elevation
   • Dump two tractor buckets of #53 crushed stone into the pit.
   • Spread and tamp the stone level with a hand tamper to form a ~10 in pad.
   • Dry-fit a length of 4 in PVC pipe from the sewer sleeve toward the pump inlet.
   • Set a spirit level on the dry-fit pipe: confirm 1/8 in per foot slope toward the pump.
   • Add or remove stone to fine-tune pad height if needed.
2. 2.2 Clean foundation waterproofing out of the sewer sleeve
   • Cut away any foam insulation around the sewer sleeve exterior.
   • Scrub waterproofing residue from inside the sleeve with PVC pipe cleaner and steel wool.
   • Continue until bare PVC is exposed: solvent cement will not bond to waterproofing.
   • Wipe the sleeve interior dry before gluing.

Key measurements

• Gravel base depth: about 10 in, compacted
• Inlet pipe slope: 1/8 in per foot confirmed with spirit level

• Tip: Dry-fit the pipe and level it before setting the pump: adjusting the pad later is much harder.
• Tip: Standard PVC pipe cleaner and steel wool remove foundation waterproofing effectively.
• Heads up: Do not solvent-weld PVC into a sleeve still coated with waterproofing; the joint will fail.

Before you move on: Spirit level on the dry-fit pipe shows 1/8 in per foot fall from sleeve to planned pump inlet height.

Step 3: Place the Ballast and Lower the Pump into the Pit

The grinder pump basin (B) sits upright and level on the compacted gravel pad; ballast blocks staged nearby in the pit.

Watch this step (6:13)

Parts in this step: (B) E-One sewer grinder pump basin

You'll need: Compact utility tractor, Nylon lifting strap, Stepladder

1. 3.1 Stage the modular concrete ballast blocks in the pit
   • Lower the four precast concrete ballast blocks into the pit before the pump.
   • Spread them apart on the gravel pad so the basin can land between them.
   • Placing ballast first avoids wrestling heavy concrete around the basin later.
2. 3.2 Rig the lifting strap and lower the pump basin with tractor forks
   • Choke a nylon lifting strap around the upper corrugations of the basin (B).
   • Suspend the basin from tractor pallet forks; use the machine with the smoothest hydraulics.
   • Slowly lower the basin onto the center of the gravel pad.
   • Guide the basin upright as it descends; keep hands clear of pinch points.
   • If the tractor lacks height, use the backhoe, but expect jerkier control.

Key measurements

• Basin diameter: 28 in

• Tip: Use the compact tractor over the backhoe for smoother hydraulic control when lowering.
• Tip: A stepladder helps reach the basin top to attach the strap.
• Heads up: Lift by the upper body strap only when ballast is not pre-cast onto the basin; if ballast is integral, lift by the lower wire eyes.
• Heads up: Keep all personnel clear of the suspended load path.

Before you move on: Basin sits upright and level on the gravel pad, 4 in inlet facing the house sewer sleeve.

Step 4: Connect the PVC Inlet Pipe and Cleanout

The 4 in PVC inlet pipe is solvent-welded from the house sewer sleeve through the two-way cleanout tee (A) and into the pump basin (B) rubber grommet to correct depth.

Watch this step (6:56)

Parts in this step: (A) Two-way PVC cleanout tee, (B) E-One sewer grinder pump basin

You'll need: Reciprocating saw, Hand file, Tape measure, Spirit level, Tongue-and-groove pliers, PVC sewer pipe, PVC primer and cement, Two-way PVC cleanout tee, PVC cleanout adapter and threaded cap, Dish soap

1. 4.1 Level the basin and align the cleanout tee with the house sleeve
   • Level the basin (B) with a spirit level; adjust the gravel pad as needed.
   • Note the burial line molded into the green cap; compare it to foundation grade.
   • Sight through the house sewer sleeve to confirm dead-on alignment with the pump inlet.
   • Position the two-way cleanout tee (A) inline between the sleeve and the pump.
2. 4.2 Mark insertion depth on the inlet pipe and remove the pump inlet plug
   • From the cut end of the 4 in PVC inlet pipe, mark a solid line at 3 in.
   • Mark a dotted line at 3-1/2 in as the maximum insertion depth.
   • Pull the protective cap from the rubber inlet grommet on the basin (B).
   • Do not insert the pipe past the 3-1/2 in mark.
3. 4.3 Glue the cleanout tee, bevel the pipe end, and insert into the pump
   • Cut the 4 in PVC pipe to length with a reciprocating saw.
   • Bevel the pump-side cut end with a hand file for smooth grommet entry.
   • Apply purple PVC primer then solvent cement to the sleeve and pipe; assemble the cleanout tee (A) inline.
   • Coat the beveled pipe end and rubber inlet grommet with dish soap.
   • Slide the pipe into the pump grommet to the 3-1/2 in mark.

Key measurements

• Inlet pipe insertion depth: 3 to 3-1/2 in into the rubber grommet
• Inlet pipe diameter: 4 in
• Inlet pipe slope: 1/8 in per foot

• Tip: Bevel the cut end with a file; lubricate pipe and grommet with dish soap before pushing together.
• Tip: Mark both 3 in and 3-1/2 in lines around the full circumference for a clear visual stop.
• Heads up: Do not push the inlet pipe past the 3-1/2 in mark into the basin.

Before you move on: The dotted 3-1/2 in line is flush with the grommet outside, solvent-weld joints are set, and a level confirms 1/8 in per foot slope.

Step 5: Assemble the Ballast Collar and Backfill with Gravel

Four concrete ballast blocks lock around the basin base flange; compacted #53 stone fills the pit to inlet and discharge pipe level.

Watch this step (8:41)

Parts in this step: (B) E-One sewer grinder pump basin

You'll need: Hand tamper, Round-point shovel, Compact utility tractor, #53 crushed stone

1. 5.1 Set the four modular concrete ballast blocks around the pump base
   • Slide each of the four concrete ballast blocks tight against the basin base flange.
   • Curved inner edges should lock over the bottom lip of the basin (B).
   • The assembled collar prevents the basin from floating when groundwater rises.
2. 5.2 Backfill and tamp #53 crushed stone in 6 to 8 inch lifts
   • Shovel #53 crushed stone into the pit around the ballast and basin.
   • Tamp each 6 to 8 in lift with a hand tamper before adding the next.
   • Stop gravel at inlet pipe and cleanout riser level.
   • Leave all plumbing joints exposed for the plumbing inspection.

Key measurements

• Backfill tamp lift height: 6 to 8 in per lift
• Backfill stop: at inlet and discharge pipe level

• Tip: Tamp every 6 to 8 in lift; dumping all stone at once causes settling around the pipes.
• Tip: Stop backfill at pipe level so the inspector can see every joint.
• Heads up: Do not complete final backfill until the plumbing inspection is passed.

Before you move on: All four ballast blocks are tight against the basin flange, gravel is compacted and level with the pipes, and all joints are visible.

Step 6: Connect the HDPE Discharge Line

The 1-1/4 in HDPE discharge pipe (C) is sealed and secured to the pump discharge port with a compression fitting; the first pipe length is laid in the trench.

Watch this step (9:36)

Parts in this step: (B) E-One sewer grinder pump basin, (C) HDPE discharge pipe

You'll need: Tongue-and-groove pliers, Tape measure, Compression fitting coupler, Pipe thread sealant, Synthetic grease, HDPE discharge pipe, MPT to compression adapter

1. 6.1 Position the HDPE pipe roll and remove the red discharge plug
   • Set the 1000 ft coil of 1-1/4 in HDPE pipe (C) at the discharge trench edge.
   • Pull the red plastic shipping plug from the stainless steel female-threaded discharge port on the basin (B).
2. 6.2 Seal the pipe threads and lubricate the compression fitting O-ring
   • Apply RectorSeal T Plus 2 thread sealant to the compression adapter male threads.
   • Thread the adapter into the pump discharge port and snug it.
   • Unscrew the outer compression nut from the adapter.
   • Apply Super Lube synthetic grease to the internal O-ring inside the coupler.
   • Forgetting to grease the O-ring risks a leak under pressure.
3. 6.3 Insert the 1-1/4 inch HDPE pipe and tighten the compression coupler
   • Insert the 1-1/4 in HDPE pipe (C) end into the compression fitting.
   • Slide the compression nut over the pipe and thread it onto the adapter body.
   • Tighten the compression collar by hand, then snug with pliers.
   • Lay the first ~10 ft of pipe into the trench.

Key measurements

• Discharge pipe diameter: 1-1/4 in HDPE
• Discharge line burial cover: 44 in minimum
• Total discharge run: over 850 ft to sewer manhole

• Tip: Grease the O-ring with synthetic grease before assembly; a dry O-ring can pinch and leak.
• Tip: Use PTFE thread paste, not tape, on the stainless steel threads.
• Tip: Rent a dedicated trencher for the 850 ft discharge run instead of the backhoe.
• Heads up: Bury the HDPE discharge line below the frost line (44 in of cover here) to prevent freezing.

Before you move on: Compression fitting snug with no gaps, O-ring greased, pipe in trench without kinking.