Garden Feature Wall with Slate and Patterned Tiles

Step 1: Review Materials

All slate veneer tiles inspected and confirmed to match the existing patio color.

Watch this step (0:25)

You'll need: Slate Verter tiles

1. 1.1 Introduce the Slate Tiles
   • Unpack the Slate Verter tiles and inspect each for damage or color variation.
   • Confirm the Slate Vera color complements the existing Casarta slate patio.
   • Set aside chipped or cracked tiles; slate veneer is brittle.

Step 2: Prepare Primer and Adhesive

Sika primer and Sikaflex adhesive identified; primer decanted into a safe container, ready for brushing.

Watch this step (0:45)

You'll need: Paintbrush, Sika Primer-3 N, Sikaflex EBT+ Adhesive Sealant

1. 2.1 Review the Primer and Adhesive
   • Identify the two-part system: Sika Primer-3 N (primer) and Sikaflex EBT+ (adhesive).
   • These products work together; do not substitute one without the other.
2. 2.2 Find a Suitable Primer Container
   • Pour the primer into a metal, glass, or chemical-resistant plastic container.
   • Do not use thin household plastic; the solvent in the primer will burn through it.
   • Keep the container small enough to dip a paintbrush easily.

• Tip: Test your container with a small splash of primer before filling it.
• Heads up: Sika primer is a strong solvent that melts certain plastics on contact.

Step 3: Apply Primer to Wall and Tiles

Wall section primed, starter tile squared, tile backs primed; all ready for adhesive.

Watch this step (2:17)

You'll need: Paintbrush, Angle grinder, Square, Sika Primer-3 N, Slate Verter tiles

1. 3.1 Prime the Wall
   • Brush an even coat of Sika Primer-3 N over the entire wall section where tiles will go.
   • Apply a thin coat: too much primer can seep through tile gaps and stain the face.
   • Let the primer become tacky before setting tiles.
2. 3.2 Square the Starter Tile
   • Trim the stepped interlocking end off the first tile with an angle grinder.
   • The cut edge must be straight and square so it sits tight against the pillar.
   • Check the squared edge against the pillar before priming.
3. 3.3 Prime the Back of the Tiles
   • Brush Sika Primer-3 N onto each tile back before applying adhesive.
   • Apply a thin, even coat: primer that seeps through gaps will stain the face.
   • Both surfaces, wall and tile back, must be primed for the strongest bond.

• Tip: Prime both wall and tile back every time: skipping one weakens the bond.
• Heads up: Do not apply primer too thickly; it can migrate through gaps and stain the slate face.

Before you move on: Check the primer is even and tacky on the wall, and the starter tile edge is square against the pillar with no gap.

Step 4: Install the First Rows of Slate Tiles

First slate tiles bonded to the wall, tight against the pillar, adhesive on middle strips only.

Watch this step (3:09)

You'll need: Caulk gun, Sikaflex EBT+ Adhesive Sealant, Slate Verter tiles

1. 4.1 Apply Adhesive to the Tile
   • Load the Sikaflex EBT+ cartridge into the caulk gun.
   • Apply beads of adhesive to the middle three strips of the tile back only.
   • Keep adhesive away from top, bottom, and side edges to prevent squeeze-out.
2. 4.2 Set the First Tile
   • Place the squared edge of the first tile tight against the pillar.
   • Press the tile onto the wall with both hands, steadily.
   • Do not tap with a hammer; slate veneer is brittle and will crack.
   • Check the tile sits flat and flush against the wall.

• Tip: Adhesive on the middle strips only prevents glue squeezing out of joints when you press the tile on.
• Heads up: Never use a hammer on slate veneer tiles: they are brittle and will break. Firm hand pressure only.

Before you move on: Check the first tile is flat to the wall, tight to the pillar, with no adhesive squeezed out at the edges.

Step 5: Continue Tiling the Wall Panels

First two wall panels fully clad with slate tiles, joints randomly staggered for a natural stone look.

Watch this step (3:57)

You'll need: Angle grinder, Measuring tape, Square, Caulk gun, Paintbrush, Slate Verter tiles, Sika Primer-3 N, Sikaflex EBT+ Adhesive Sealant

1. 5.1 Stagger the Joints
   • Cut starter pieces of different lengths for each new row.
   • Vary the starting length so vertical joints never align row to row.
   • A random stagger looks more natural than a repeating offset pattern.
   • If you trim the same amount off every starter, joints will form visible vertical lines.
2. 5.2 Measure and Cut End Pieces
   • At each row's end, measure the remaining gap with a tape.
   • Transfer the measurement to a tile and mark a square cut line.
   • Cut the tile to length with an angle grinder and masonry disc.
3. 5.3 Continue Tiling Up the Wall
   • For every tile: prime the wall section, prime the tile back, apply adhesive to the middle strips, press firmly.
   • Work bottom up, row by row, across each panel.
   • Check each tile is flush and flat before moving on.
   • If the wall is uneven, dub it out with render and let it set before tiling over it.

• Tip: Stagger joints with random-length starters: a trained eye will spot repeating vertical lines even if the customer does not.
• Tip: If a wall section is wobbly, dub it out (render it flat) before tiling.
• Heads up: Wear a dust mask and safety glasses every time you cut slate with the angle grinder.

Before you move on: Step back and sight across the panels: no two adjacent rows should have aligned vertical joints, and all tiles should sit flat.

Step 6: Complete the Final Wall Panel

The third and final panel is fully clad with slate veneer tiles, completing all three panels.

Watch this step (8:18)

You'll need: Angle grinder, Measuring tape, Square, Caulk gun, Paintbrush, Slate Verter tiles, Sika Primer-3 N, Sikaflex EBT+ Adhesive Sealant

1. 6.1 Tile the Final Panel
   • Repeat on the third panel: prime the wall, prime each tile, apply adhesive to the middle strips, press firmly.
   • Continue the random stagger pattern from the first two panels.
   • Cut end pieces to fit with the angle grinder.
   • Inspect all three panels for tiles not sitting flat.

Before you move on: All three panels are fully tiled; no gaps, no squeeze-out, all tiles flat.

Step 7: Prepare to Install Coping Stones

Mortar is mixed with Marshall's Primer admixture and ready for bedding the coping stones.

Watch this step (8:31)

You'll need: Mortar, Marshall's Primer

1. 7.1 Prepare Mortar Mix
   • Cut the drip groove into every coping stone first (see step 9), then mix mortar to a firm, workable consistency.
   • Add Marshall's Primer admixture for a stronger bond.
   • Admixture ratio is not stated here: follow the Marshall's Primer product label.

• Tip: The admixture greatly strengthens the bond: do not skip it for exterior coping.

Step 8: Install the Coping Stones

All coping stones are bedded in mortar on the wall and pillars, pressed firmly into place.

Watch this step (8:44)

You'll need: Coping stones, Mortar, Marshall's Primer

1. 8.1 Lay the Mortar Bed
   • Spread a thick, even layer of prepared mortar onto each pillar top and wall section.
   • Do pillar copings first, then fit wall copings between them.
2. 8.2 Set the Coping Stones
   • Dry-lay the grooved coping stones first, groove down and toward the front, to confirm fit and spacing.
   • Set each coping stone onto the mortar bed and press down firmly.
   • Check each stone is level and aligned with its neighbors.
   • Clean mortar squeeze-out from the edges before it sets.

• Tip: Dry-lay copings first to confirm dimensions before applying mortar.

Before you move on: All coping stones are level, aligned, and firmly bedded with no rocking.

Step 9: The Drip Groove (Cut Before Bedding)

Every coping stone gets a drip groove along its underside before it is bedded in step 8, so rainwater drips off instead of running down the slate face.

Watch this step (9:24)

You'll need: Wet tile saw, Coping stones

1. 9.1 Cut a Drip Groove
   • Before bedding, cut a shallow groove along the underside of each coping stone on a wet tile saw, parallel to the front edge.
   • The groove catches rainwater and forces it to drip off the coping instead of running down the wall.
   • Groove depth and width are not specified here: a shallow channel is enough.
   • Run the groove the full length of each coping stone for continuous water management.

• Tip: The drip groove prevents water staining on the slate below: do not skip this on an exterior wall.
• Heads up: Wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using the wet tile saw.

Before you move on: Run a finger along each coping underside: the groove should be continuous with no skipped sections.