Modern Slatted Wood Bench from a Single 2x12 Board

Step 1: Crosscut the 2x12 board to length

Crosscut the 8-foot 2x12 board into a 6-foot slat blank and 2-foot spacer blank.

Watch this step (0:10)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Circular saw, Rafter square, Tape measure, Pencil, Bar clamps, 2x12 lumber board

1. 1.1 Measure and cut the 6-foot bench length
   • Mark 72 in from one end of the 2x12 board with a pencil.
   • Mark a square cut line across the face with the 12 in rafter square.
   • Clamp the rafter square parallel to the line, offset for the circular saw shoe.
   • Run the circular saw shoe along the square to crosscut the 6 ft bench slat (A) blank.
   • Save the 24 in cutoff to rip intermediate spacer blocks (B) and end and center spacer blocks (C).

Key measurements

• Slat blank length: 72 in (6 ft) from one end of the 8 ft 2x12
• Spacer blank length: 24 in (2 ft) cutoff from the 8 ft 2x12

• Tip: Clamp the 12 in rafter square to the board as a straightedge fence.
• Heads up: Support both sections during the cut so the kerf does not pinch the blade.

Before you move on: Check that the cut face is square and the long section measures 72 in.

Step 2: Rip the slats and spacer strips on the table saw

Rip the 6-foot section into nine 1-inch slats and the 2-foot cutoff into 3/4-inch spacer strips.

Watch this step (0:16)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Table saw, Detail sander, 2x12 lumber board

1. 2.1 Rip and sand the nine 1-inch bench slats
   • Set the table saw fence 1 in from the blade.
   • Rip the 72 in 2x12 section into nine 1 in by 1-1/2 in bench slats (A).
   • Feed the last several inches with a push stick.
   • Sand all four faces of bench slats (A) with a detail sander and 100-grit paper.
2. 2.2 Rip the 3/4-inch spacer strips from the 2-foot cutoff
   • Set the table saw fence 3/4 in from the blade.
   • Rip six 3/4 in by 1-1/2 in strips from the 24 in board cutoff.
   • Save three 3/4 in by 1-1/2 in strips for end and center spacer blocks (C).
   • Turn the other three strips 90 degrees and rip them in half at 3/4 in.
   • Save the six 3/4 in by 3/4 in strips for intermediate spacer blocks (B).

Key measurements

• Slat rip width: 1 in from blade to table saw fence (nine 1 in x 1-1/2 in slats).
• Spacer strip rip width: 3/4 in from blade to table saw fence (three 1-1/2 in tall, three ripped 3/4 in square).

• Tip: Set a worktable behind the table saw as outfeed support for the 6 ft slats.
• Tip: Sand the slats thoroughly now because you cannot reach inside the 3/4 in slots after assembly.
• Heads up: Always use a push stick on 1 in and 3/4 in rips to keep fingers from the blade.

Before you move on: Count nine 72 in slats, three 3/4 in by 1-1/2 in strips and six 3/4 in square strips.

Step 3: Cut the spacer strips into blocks on the miter saw

Crosscut spacer strips into thirty-two 2-inch blocks and twenty-four 1-1/2-inch square blocks.

Watch this step (0:38)

Parts in this step: (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Miter saw, Pencil, 2x12 lumber board

1. 3.1 Chop the 3/4-inch strips into 2-inch blocks and 1-1/2-inch squares
   • Mark 2 in on the miter saw fence ruler.
   • Crosscut six 3/4 in by 3/4 in strips into thirty-two 2 in intermediate spacer blocks (B).
   • Mark 1-1/2 in on the miter saw fence ruler.
   • Crosscut three 3/4 in by 1-1/2 in strips into twenty-four 1-1/2 in end and center spacer blocks (C).

Key measurements

• Intermediate spacer block (B) length: 2 in (3/4 in x 3/4 in cross-section, 32 pieces).
• End and center spacer block (C) length: 1-1/2 in (3/4 in x 1-1/2 in cross-section, 24 pieces).

• Tip: Use the miter saw fence ruler to repeat the 2 in and 1-1/2 in cuts quickly.
• Heads up: Let the miter saw blade stop before lifting so small 1-1/2 in blocks do not catch the teeth.

Before you move on: Check for thirty-two 2 in blocks and twenty-four 1-1/2 in square blocks.

Step 4: Mark layout lines on the slats and spacers

Mark 1-foot spacer intervals on the slats and centerlines on the 2-inch spacer blocks.

Watch this step (0:58)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Rafter square, Combination square, Framing square, Tape measure, Pencil, 2x12 lumber board

1. 4.1 Mark 1-foot intervals across the 6-foot slats
   • Set the nine bench slats (A) together on the worktable, 1 in edges up.
   • Face the clearest slat edges up for the visible bench top.
   • Flush the slat ends and measure 1 ft intervals at 12, 24, 36, 48, and 60 in.
   • Use a rafter square to pencil lines across all nine slats at each 1 ft mark.
2. 4.2 Mark the centerlines on the spacer blocks and group them by row
   • Set a combination square to 1 in; mark the midpoint on one intermediate spacer block (B).
   • Align intermediate spacer blocks (B) in four rows of eight.
   • Mark the 1 in centerline across each stack of eight with a framing square or rafter square.
   • Stack the twenty-four end and center spacer blocks (C) in three groups of eight at the ends and 36 in mark.

Key measurements

• Slat layout intervals: 12 in (1 ft) apart along the 72 in length on the 1 in edge
• Intermediate spacer centerline: 1 in from either end of 2 in intermediate spacer blocks (B).

• Tip: Keep the nine slat ends flush while marking so spacer rows align across the bench.

Before you move on: Check marks are on the 1 in slat edges, not the 1-1/2 in side faces.

Step 5: Glue and brad-nail the slats and spacers together

Laminate the nine slats and eight spacer rows with wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brad nails.

Watch this step (1:12)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Brad nailer, Pliers, Bar clamps, 2x12 lumber board, Brad nails, Wood glue

1. 5.1 Glue and nail the first two slats and spacer row
   • Lay the first bench slat (A) on its 1-1/2 in face and dab wood glue at the seven marks.
   • Place end and center spacer blocks (C) flush at the ends, centered on the 36 in mark.
   • Align four intermediate spacer blocks (B) on the 12, 24, 48, and 60 in marks, flush to the table.
   • Apply wood glue to the seven spacer tops, then set the second bench slat (A) on top.
   • Hold the brad nailer perpendicular to the slat; fire two 1-1/4 in brad nails into each spacer.
2. 5.2 Stack and nail the remaining slats and remove any deflected nails
   • Glue and nail the remaining seven bench slats (A) and spacer rows layer by layer.
   • Flush each intermediate spacer block (B) with the bottom face so top slots stay recessed.
   • Check each joint before firing and offset brad nails from knots so nails do not deflect out.
   • Pull out any nail that blows out the side with pliers.
   • Clamp the assembled top flat on the worktable with bar clamps until the glue cures.

Key measurements

• End and center spacer positions along slats: 0 in, 36 in, and 72 in
• Intermediate spacer positions: centered on 12 in, 24 in, 48 in, and 60 in marks, flush with bottom face

• Tip: Hold the brad nailer perpendicular to the workpiece; clamp the glued bench flat on a table to dry without warping.
• Heads up: Keep your stabilizing hand several inches from the joint when firing in case a brad nail hits a knot and exits the side.

Before you move on: Check intermediate spacers sit flush with the bottom face and no deflected nails protrude.

Step 6: Sand the bench and apply polyurethane finish

Sand the glued bench top flush and seal with oil-based polyurethane spray.

Watch this step (1:39)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block, (C) End and center spacer block

You'll need: Belt sander, Detail sander, Bar clamps, Polyurethane spray

1. 6.1 Sand the bench flush and spray semi-gloss polyurethane
   • Let the wood glue dry completely, then secure the bench top to the worktable with bar clamps.
   • Level laminated slats and flush bench slats (A) and spacer blocks (B, C) ends with a belt sander.
   • Smooth outer edges and corners with a detail sander and 100-grit sandpaper, then wipe off dust.
   • Apply several even coats of oil-based semi-gloss polyurethane spray to the top, sides, and slots.

• Tip: Use aerosol polyurethane spray so mist evenly coats inside the narrow 3/4 in slots without brush drips.
• Heads up: Spray oil-based aerosol polyurethane in a ventilated space wearing an organic vapor respirator, not a paper dust mask.

Before you move on: Let the final polyurethane coat dry completely before flipping the bench top upside down.

Step 7: Bend and mount the metal legs

Bend the metal legs to a trapezoid profile and screw them under the bench.

Watch this step (1:46)

Parts in this step: (A) Bench slat, (B) Intermediate spacer block

You'll need: Combination square, Pencil, Drill/driver, Metal bench legs, Mounting screws

1. 7.1 Bend the legs to a trapezoid angle and screw them to the underside
   • Hand-flex both U-shaped metal bench legs slightly outward to form a matching trapezoid angle.
   • Flip the bench top upside down; set each leg over the 12 in and 60 in intermediate spacer blocks (B) rows.
   • Align leg mounting tabs along the second bench slat (A) from each outer edge with a combination square.
   • Mark holes with a pencil and drill pilot holes into the bench slats (A) with a drill/driver.
   • Drive the supplied mounting screws into the pilot holes to secure both metal bench legs.

Key measurements

• Leg lengthwise position: straddling 12 in and 60 in interior spacer rows (1 ft from each end)_
• Leg side inset: mounting tabs centered along the second slat from each outer edge

• Tip: Use a combination square from the bench side edge to keep both legs square and evenly inset.
• Heads up: Always drill pilot holes before driving leg screws so the narrow 1 in pine slats do not split.

Before you move on: Turn the bench upright and check it sits level on the floor without rocking.