DIY Wooden Farm & ATV Wagon

Step 1: Assemble the Running Gear

The steel running gear chassis stands on four wheels at its 6.5 ft frame length.

Watch this step (0:51)

You'll need: Wrench Set, Wagon Running Gear Kit, Chassis bolts, locknuts, and lug nuts

1. 1.1 Lay Out and Assemble Frame
   • Unpack the Wagon Running Gear Kit on a flat floor and sort bolts.
   • Assemble steel frame sections with kit hardware and a wrench set.
   • Set the telescoping center pole to the full 6.5 ft frame length.
2. 1.2 Attach Axles and Wheels
   • Bolt front steering and rear axle assemblies to the main frame.
   • Connect towing tongue and steering tie-rod linkage to the front axle.
   • Mount all four wheels on the hubs and tighten lug nuts.
   • Grease steering and axle fittings so the front turns smoothly.

Key measurements

• Chassis frame length: 6.5 ft extended to carry an 8 ft bed
• Outside tire width: 48 in across outer sidewalls
• Running gear capacity: 2,200 lb maximum load

• Tip: Keep the steering tie-rod adjuster reachable until Step 2 wheel alignment.

Before you move on: Frame and lug bolts are tight; the chassis rolls freely on all four tires.

Step 2: Align the Steering

Both front tires sit parallel to the frame with the tow tongue straight ahead.

Watch this step (1:59)

You'll need: Carpenter Square, Wrench Set, Wagon Running Gear Kit

1. 2.1 Check Wheel Alignment
   • Align the front towing tongue straight with the center frame tube.
   • Hold a carpenter square flat against the main frame tube behind the front axle.
   • Check both front tires against the square for toe-in or toe-out.
2. 2.2 Adjust the Steering Linkage
   • Wrench-loosen the jam nuts on the rear steering tie-rod linkage.
   • Turn the threaded tie-rod sleeve until both front tires sit parallel to the frame.
   • Lock the jam nuts; test-tow the bare chassis for smooth tracking.

Key measurements

• Wheel alignment angle: 90 degrees to the axle reference so front tires sit parallel

• Tip: Align and test-tow the bare chassis now while the steering linkage is unobstructed.
• Heads up: Out-of-square front tires skip sideways on concrete and wear unevenly.
• Heads up: Frequent pavement towing can work the steering linkage out of alignment.

Before you move on: Both front tires roll straight on pavement without skipping or scrubbing when towed.

Step 3: Attach the Main Support Beams

Two 8 ft 4x6 support beams fastened lengthwise to the running gear axle bolsters.

Watch this step (2:45)

Parts in this step: (A) Main longitudinal support beam

You'll need: Wrench Set, Cordless Drill/Driver, Tape Measure, Wagon Running Gear Kit, Pressure-Treated Lumber, Lag Screws, Bolster bracket bolts and nuts

1. 3.1 Position the Support Beams
   • Set both main support beams (A) lengthwise across the front and rear bolsters.
   • Set each beam (A) atop the bolster plate, shifted slightly inward.
   • Center the 96 in beams (A) front-to-back on the 6.5 ft chassis frame.
2. 3.2 Secure Beams with Brackets
   • Bolt kit L-brackets into the factory holes on the axle bolster plates.
   • Drive 3 in x 5/16 in lag screws through the bracket side holes into each beam (A).
   • Swing the tow tongue full left and right; check that tires clear both beams (A).

Key measurements

• Support beam length: full 96 in 4x6 stock for both beams (A)\
• Lag screw size: 3 in long, 5/16 in diameter

• Tip: Mount beams atop and inside the bolster plates; recessing plates into the wood sets beams too wide, causing tire rub.
• Heads up: A rigid wooden bed lagged to both axles cannot flex over deep cross-ruts, lifting a tire and pulling the lag screws.

Before you move on: Both 4x6 beams (A) sit parallel with equal front and rear overhang and clear the front tires at full turn.

Step 4: Install the Decking

Eighteen 48 in 2x6 deck boards screwed crosswise to the 4x6 beams form a 4x8 ft floor.

Watch this step (3:44)

Parts in this step: (B) Deck board

You'll need: Miter Saw, Tape Measure, Chalk Line, Cordless Drill/Driver, Pressure-Treated Lumber, Deck Screws

1. 4.1 Cut and Dry-Fit Deck Boards
   • Cut eighteen knot-free deck boards (B) to 48 in on the miter saw.
   • Dry-fit the deck boards (B) crosswise across both beams (A); rip the last board to fit the 96 in bed.
   • Set equal side overhang past beams (A); screw the first end board (B) down square.
2. 4.2 Mark Screw Lines
   • Butt remaining wet deck boards (B) tightly together down the 96 in bed.
   • Mark the center of both 4x6 beams (A) on the front and rear deck boards (B).
   • Snap two chalk lines down the deck over the center of each beam (A).
3. 4.3 Fasten the Deck Boards
   • Drive one deck screw through each board (B) along both chalk lines into beams (A).
   • Drive a second deck screw beside the first in a narrow centerline over each beam (A).
   • Saw the overhanging deck board (B) ends flush along both 8 ft sides.

Key measurements

• Deck board length: 48 in across the bed width
• Deck board count: 17 full 2x6 boards plus 1 ripped to fit the 96 in bed
• Screw count: 2 deck screws per board at each 4x6 beam, near the centerline

• Tip: Butt wet pressure-treated boards tightly so shrinkage leaves only small gaps as they dry.

Before you move on: All eighteen deck boards (B) are fastened with two screws per beam and trimmed flush on both sides.

Step 5: Build and Attach the Sides

2x6 front and side walls locked to the deck with under-deck tie rails and exterior vertical risers.

Watch this step (5:33)

Parts in this step: (C) Under-deck tie rail, (D) Side wall rail, (E) Front wall rail, (F) Vertical side and front riser, (G) Rear vertical corner riser

You'll need: Miter Saw, Tape Measure, Cordless Drill/Driver, Pressure-Treated Lumber, Deck Screws

1. 5.1 Construct the Side Walls
   • Bevel the rear ends of the 96 in under-deck tie rails (C), hold flat under the overhangs, and screw down through deck boards (B).
   • Set the lower 96 in side wall rails (D) and 45 in front wall rail (E) on the deck and toe-screw them down.
   • Angle-cut the rear ends of upper side rails (D) and stack with upper front rail (E); do not screw rail-to-rail.
   • Cut eight 2x6 vertical risers (F) and two 2x4 rear corner risers (G) to 14 in (estimated; cut to span full wall and under-deck rail height).
   • Screw 2x6 risers (F) outside the sides and front and 2x4 risers (G) at the rear corners into rail (C), deck (B), and rails (D, E).

Key measurements

• Under-deck tie rail and side wall rail length: 96 in per side
• Front wall rail length: 45 in between the two 1 1/2 in thick side walls
• Side wall height: 11 in above deck (two stacked 2x6 planks)
• Vertical riser length: 14 in (estimated), tying the under-deck 2x4, 2x6 deck, and two 2x6 wall rails

• Tip: Fixed exterior risers make the sides rock-solid for leaning kids and eliminate storing loose stake-pocket rails.
• Heads up: Avoid tight turning loops when towing; the vehicle can out-turn the wagon, pinching the tongue against the frame or linkage.

Before you move on: Exterior risers (F, G) tie under-deck rails, deck, and upper and lower wall rails tightly with zero play.