Refinished Dresser with One-Step Paint Recipe and Basket Cubbies
Step-by-step guide made from Black Sheep House's YouTube video.
Transform an outdated wooden dresser by removing the cabinet door to create open basket cubbies, cutting off the scalloped base apron, and filling surface scratches. Refinish the piece using a homemade one-step paint mixture of water-based paint, primer, polyurethane, and calcium carbonate, then install solid wood pulls that cover the old hardware holes.
- Difficulty: beginner
Safety
- Wear a particulate respirator mask and use a vacuum dust collection attachment when sanding wood filler indoors to avoid inhaling fine dust.
- Keep fingers clear of the oscillating multi-tool blade while cutting the dresser base.
Must know before you build
- Thoroughly scrub trim crevices with soap to prevent bleed-through from oils and grime.
- Thin wood filler slightly with water for easier spreading into deep scratches and indents.
- Mix 1:1:1 paint, primer, poly; pre-dissolve calcium carbonate in water before adding.
- White primer in the one-step paint will lighten your final paint color by several shades.
- Never sand after the final coat of one-step paint; it will scratch the finish.
- Select new drawer pulls wide enough to cover existing hardware holes to avoid filling.
Tools
- Flathead screwdriver (manual flathead screwdriver)
- Scrub brush (handheld bristle scrub brush) (optional)
- Cleaning sponge (dual-sided scrubber sponge, Scrub Daddy)
- Bucket (plastic cleaning bucket)
- Putty knife (metal putty knife)
- Sanding sponge (angled sanding block and 400-grit sanding sponge, 400 grit)
- Vacuum (vacuum cleaner with hose attachment, Dyson) (optional)
- Respirator (particulate respirator mask)
- Oscillating multi-tool (corded oscillating multi-tool, Hyper Tough, 2.1-Amp, with wood-cutting plunge blade)
- Tape measure (retractable tape measure)
- Mixing container and measuring cups (plastic storage container and measuring cups, 1 cup, 1/4 cup, and 1/8 cup)
- Paintbrush (angled synthetic paintbrush, 2 inch)
- Foam paint roller (high-density mini foam roller, Whizz, Cabinets and Doors)
- Pencil (wooden pencil)
- Cordless drill (cordless drill/driver, 24V Max, with twist drill bit and spade bit)
Materials
- Dish soap (liquid dish soap, Dawn)
- Paper towels
- Wood filler (all-purpose wood filler, DAP, Plastic Wood, Natural color, 16 oz)
- Sandpaper (no-slip grip sandpaper, 3M, 150 grit, 220 grit, and 400 grit)
- Water-based interior paint (1 cup, water-based acrylic/latex house paint, Sherwin-Williams, Ovation Plus)
- Water-based primer (1 cup, water-based all-surface primer, Zinsser, Bulls Eye 1-2-3, White, Quart)
- Water-based polyurethane (1 cup, water-based clear topcoat, Varathane, Ultimate Polyurethane, Crystal Clear Matte, Quart)
- Calcium carbonate powder (1/4 cup, chalky paint additive / limestone powder, Greenway Biotech, Mixed with 1/8 cup water)
- Wooden drawer pulls (8 pieces, solid wood cabinet handles, Bitray, 3.8-inch hole centers, clear-coated natural wood, 3.8-inch hole distance)
- Lubricant spray (multi-use lubricant, WD-40)
- Woven storage baskets (2 baskets (from 2 sets of 3), oval hand-woven water hyacinth stackable baskets, eHemco)
- Faux rattan webbing (faux cane / rattan runner roll)
Step by step
Step 1: Remove the Old Hardware
Unscrew and remove all of the original brass Chippendale drawer pulls using a flathead screwdriver.
- Unscrew and remove the Chippendale pulls. Open each drawer, loosen the mounting screws from the inside with a flathead screwdriver, and pull off the brass Chippendale handles.
- Tip: Replace outdated Chippendale or batwing pulls with modern hardware rather than spray-painting the old ones.
- Common mistake: Spray-painting outdated Chippendale hardware black or gold and reinstalling it, which dates the piece.
Step 2: Scrub and Clean the Dresser
Wash the entire dresser with warm soapy water using a sponge and scrub brush to clean deep into the trim crevices, then wipe dry with paper towels.
- Mix warm soapy water and scrub flat surfaces. Fill a bucket with warm water and dish soap, then scrub the drawer fronts and flat dresser surfaces with a sponge.
- Scrub trim crevices with a bristle brush and wipe dry. Scrub along the molded base trim and crevices with a bristled scrub brush, then wipe away the dirty suds with paper towels.
- Tip: Use a bristled scrub brush to clean deep into nooks, crannies, and trim details to prevent bleed-through.
- Common mistake: Only wiping flat surfaces and leaving grime in the crevices, which leads to bleed-through in the details.
Step 3: Preview Hardware Placement
Hold candidate drawer pulls up against the drawer fronts to evaluate hardware styles and placement before painting.
- Hold candidate pulls against the drawers to check proportions. Hold different knobs and bar pulls up against the upper and lower drawers with a helper so you can step back and compare how they look before filling or drilling holes.
- Tip: Choose your hardware placement before painting so you can use the existing holes as a reference point when drilling.
- Tip: If you don't have a helper to hold the hardware, lay the dresser on its back or use removable putty like Blu-Tack to test the look.
Step 4: Fill Wood Imperfections and Sand Smooth
Thin wood filler with a splash of water, spread it over scratches, dings, and hardware imprints with a putty knife, and sand the dried filler smooth while vacuuming up the dust.
- Thin the wood filler with water. Open the tub of wood filler and pour a small splash of water into the center to soften dry, stiff filler into a spreadable paste.
- Tip: Pour a small amount of water into stiff wood filler to make it easier to spread smoothly.
- Spread wood filler over scratches and dings. Use a metal putty knife to press and scrape wood filler across deep scratches on the top, dings on the frame, and imprints on the drawers, then let it dry.
- Sand the dried filler flush while vacuuming dust. Sand the dried wood filler smooth using an angled sanding sponge while holding a vacuum hose right next to the sponge to catch the dust.
- Tip: Hold a vacuum hose directly below your sanding sponge to capture airborne dust as you sand indoors.
Step 5: Remove the Cabinet Door and Cut the Scalloped Base
Unscrew the cabinet door hinges to expose the open cubby shelves, lay the dresser on its back, cut off the curved bottom apron with an oscillating multi-tool, and sand the cut edge smooth with 150-grit sandpaper.
- Unscrew and remove the cabinet door. Unscrew the hinges on the right-side cabinet door and lift the door off to turn the compartment into open cubby shelves.
- Tip the dresser onto its back and prep the multi-tool. Carefully lay the dresser flat on its back to expose the bottom apron, then fit a wood-cutting plunge blade onto an oscillating multi-tool.
- Tip: Use a handheld oscillating multi-tool with a wood-cutting blade to easily trim curved furniture legs and aprons.
- Cut off the curved scalloped base apron. Make a vertical relief cut at each inside leg corner, then guide the oscillating blade along the horizontal trim line to remove the curved decorative apron.
- Tip: Don't stress if your cut along the bottom apron is slightly uneven in a spot; once sanded and near the floor, small imperfections won't be noticeable.
- Sand the cut edge smooth with 150-grit sandpaper. Wrap 150-grit sandpaper around a sanding block and sand the freshly cut bottom edge until smooth and free of splinters.
Step 6: Compare Hardware Options on the Flat Dresser
Lay different drawer pulls across the horizontal drawer fronts while the dresser is on its back to finalize your hardware choice.
- Test hardware options on the horizontal drawer fronts. Place cup pulls, long brass bar pulls, and wooden handles directly onto the drawer fronts while the dresser is lying flat on its back to compare styles hands-free.
- Tip: Lay the dresser on its back so you can place different hardware options directly on the drawers without them falling off.
Step 7: Mix the One-Step Paint Recipe
Combine 1 cup water-based paint, 1 cup water-based primer, and 1 cup water-based polyurethane in a container, then dissolve 1/4 cup calcium carbonate in 1/8 cup water and stir it into the paint mixture.
- Pour 1 cup each of water-based paint, primer, and polyurethane. Pour 1 cup of water-based paint, 1 cup of water-based primer, and 1 cup of water-based polyurethane into a mixing container.
- Tip: Ensure all three liquid ingredients—paint, primer, and polyurethane—are water-based.
- Tip: Any sheen of water-based paint (matte, satin, or semi-gloss) can be used in the mixture.
- Common mistake: Not accounting for the white primer lightening the original paint color by several shades.
- Dissolve 1/4 cup calcium carbonate in 1/8 cup water. Scoop 1/4 cup of calcium carbonate powder into a small cup containing 1/8 cup of water and stir thoroughly until blended into a smooth, watery paste.
- Tip: Calcium carbonate is optional; include it only if you want a flatter, more matte finish.
- Tip: Always dissolve the calcium carbonate in water before adding it to the paint mixture.
- Stir the base ingredients and blend in the calcium carbonate. Stir the paint, primer, and polyurethane together until uniform in color, then pour in the dissolved calcium carbonate mixture and stir until completely incorporated.
- Tip: Store leftover one-step paint in an airtight mason jar in a cool, dark, dry environment.
- Tip: If painting kitchen cabinets, prime first and apply a separate clear coat afterward rather than relying on the one-step mixture alone.
Step 8: Mark and Drill New Hardware Holes
Align each wooden handle with one existing hole on the drawer front so the handle covers the old holes, mark the second hole location with a pencil, and drill through the drawer front.
- Mark the new hole position using the wooden pull. Mark the screw hole locations on the edge of the solid wood handle with a pencil, line up one hole with an existing drawer hole so the wide handle covers both old holes, and mark the second hole on the drawer front.
- Tip: Use wide solid-wood block handles that completely cover old hardware holes so you don't have to fill and sand the old holes.
- Tip: You can sand the clear coat off the wooden handles if you want to stain or paint them a custom color.
- Drill the new hardware holes in the drawer fronts. Use a cordless drill with a twist bit to drill straight through the pencil mark on each drawer front.
Step 9: Brush and Roll the First Coat on the Drawers
Sand the piece with 220- and 400-grit sandpaper, then brush a thin layer of the one-step paint onto the drawer fronts and immediately smooth it out with a high-density foam roller.
- Brush a thin coat of paint onto the drawer front. After sanding the wood filler with 220-grit and 400-grit sandpaper, use a paintbrush to spread a thin layer of the one-step paint across the face and edges of the drawer front.
- Tip: Sand wood-filled areas with 220-grit sandpaper and finish with 400-grit sandpaper before painting.
- Roll over the wet paint with a foam roller. Immediately roll over the brushed paint using a high-density foam roller in long, light passes to remove brush marks and leave a thin, even coat.
- Tip: Apply thin coats that look as sheer as a pass of spray paint on the first coat.
- Tip: Keep about three foam rollers on hand and swap to a fresh roller for each coat so a saturated roller doesn't add texture.
- Common mistake: Loading too much paint onto the brush or continuing to use a paint-saturated foam roller, which creates a textured finish.
Step 10: Paint the Dresser Top and Carcass
Wipe dust off the dresser, then brush and roll the one-step paint across the top and frame in long, continuous passes from end to end while keeping a wet edge.
- Wipe dust off the dresser top and brush on the first coat. Wipe any remaining sanding dust off the dresser top, then use a paintbrush to spread a thin layer of one-step paint across the entire top surface and front edge.
- Tip: Use Whizz 'Cabinets and Doors' high-density foam rollers from Lowe's rather than standard furniture rollers for the smoothest finish.
- Tip: Work in a cool garage out of direct sunlight so the thin layer of paint doesn't dry before you can roll it out.
- Tip: Add Floetrol or a paint extender when painting in hot summer weather to slow down the drying time.
- Common mistake: Using the brush-and-roll-off technique in hot sun, which causes the paint to dry too fast and leave drag marks.
- Roll the dresser top from end to end. Roll the foam roller in long, uninterrupted strokes from one end of the dresser top all the way to the other, overlapping each wet pass slightly.
- Tip: Roll from one end all the way to the other in continuous passes while keeping a wet edge to prevent streaks.
- Common mistake: Using pure chalk paint, which causes heavy streakiness when topcoated.
- Brush and roll the front frame and cubby dividers. Brush a thin coat of paint onto the front stiles, rails, and cubby edges of the dresser carcass, following immediately with the foam roller while the paint is still wet.
- Tip: Stir your paint periodically as you work through the project to keep the sheen and ingredients evenly mixed.
- Tip: Focus most on keeping a wet edge during your third and final coat, especially when using darker paint colors.
- Common mistake: Rolling over a spot that has already started to dry, which creates uneven sheen and streaks.
Step 11: Apply Additional Coats of Paint
Apply two additional thin coats of paint to the dresser carcass and drawer fronts using a fresh foam roller for each coat, lightly scuffing with a 400-grit sanding sponge before the final coat.
- Brush and roll the second and third coats on the drawers and carcass. Allow the first coat to dry, lightly sand with a 400-grit sanding sponge before the final coat to remove any dust or hairs, and brush and roll the remaining coats onto the dresser and drawers.
- Tip: Lightly scuff with a 400-grit sanding sponge before applying the final coat to knock off any dust or hairs.
Step 12: Counterbore Drawers, Attach Pulls, and Lubricate Slides
Use a spade bit to counterbore the inside of the drawer fronts so the handle screws reach, attach the wooden pulls, and spray lubricant onto the metal drawer slides.
- Counterbore the inside of the drawer holes and attach the pulls. Use a spade bit in your cordless drill to bore a shallow recess into the inside of each drawer front around the screw holes so the included screws reach through, then thread the wooden handles on.
- Tip: If the screws included with your hardware are slightly too short for thick drawer fronts, counterbore the inside of the drawer holes with a spade bit or countersink bit instead of buying longer screws.
- Watch out: Do not sand after your last coat of paint.
- Common mistake: Sanding the surface after the final coat of paint has dried.
- Lubricate the metal drawer slides with WD-40. Spray WD-40 onto the metal drawer tracks inside the dresser carcass and wipe away any excess drips with a paper towel.
Step 13: Insert Storage Baskets into the Cubbies
Unbox the woven water hyacinth baskets and place one on each open shelf of the dresser cubby.
- Unpack the woven baskets and slide them into the cubby shelves. Unpack the matching water hyacinth baskets from two nesting sets and slide one basket onto each open cubby shelf.
- Tip: If the exact basket size you need only comes in a nested multi-size set, buy two sets and use or resell the extra sizes.