Refinishing a Dark Wood Dresser with a Light Wood Paint Wash
Step-by-step guide made from Black Sheep House's YouTube video.
Strip the dark stain and varnish off a vintage Drexel dresser using chemical stripper, then sand the bare wood and veneer smooth. Apply a diluted tan paint wash to even out the wood tones for a bleached light-wood look, seal the piece with natural paste wax, and install black hardware.
- Difficulty: intermediate
Safety
- Always wear a respirator with organic vapor cartridges and heavy-duty chemical-resistant gloves when working with solvent-based paint strippers.
- Work in a well-ventilated space—such as an open garage with a fan blowing fumes outward and an air purifier running—to avoid inhaling toxic vapors.
- Inspect the inside of masks and respirators for spiders or debris before putting them on your face.
- Dispose of chemical stripper sludge at a local hazardous waste facility rather than throwing wet chemicals into household trash.
Must know before you build
- Use a natural fiber chip brush for chemical stripper; synthetic bristles melt.
- Avoid aggressive orbital sanding on thin veneer edges; it burns right through.
- Apply paint wash with a high-density foam roller for even, streak-free coverage.
- Paint wash evens varied wood tones and prevents yellowing under the final topcoat.
- Melt excess paste wax in crevices with a blow dryer to remove white residue.
- Line stripper disposal box with plastic wrap and cat litter to absorb liquid residue.
Tools
- Heavy-duty chemical gloves (chemical-resistant gauntlets)
- Disposable gloves (nitrile/latex disposable gloves)
- Chip brush (natural fiber bristle brush)
- Metal scraper (metal putty knife)
- Plastic scraper (plastic putty knife) (optional)
- Wire brushes (detail wire brush set, Blue Hawk, 3-pack)
- Respirator mask (half-facepiece respirator with organic vapor cartridges, 3M)
- Glass jar (small mason jar) (optional)
- Dust mask (disposable particulate mask)
- Razor blade scraper (retractable single-edge razor holder) (optional)
- Cordless drill/driver (cordless drill, Kobalt)
- Sanding block (flexible foam hand sanding block)
- Random-orbital sander (corded random-orbital sander, Bosch)
- Plastic mixing container (small plastic tub)
- Foam roller (mini high-density foam roller, Whizz)
- Synthetic paintbrush (flat sash paintbrush, 1-1/2 in (38.1 mm))
- Foam brush (beveled foam paintbrush)
- Round bristle brush (oval/round chalk and wax brush) (optional)
- Microfiber cloth (lint-free wiping cloth)
- Blow dryer (household hair dryer) (optional)
Materials
- Vintage wood dresser (1, solid wood and wood veneer dresser, Drexel)
- Chemical paint and varnish stripper (solvent-based paste stripper, Klean-Strip, Premium Stripper, 15-minute formula, 1 quart (946 mL))
- Odorless mineral spirits (solvent cleaner, Klean-Strip, 1 quart (946 mL))
- Steel wool (abrasive pad)
- Plastic wrap (cling film, Life)
- Cat litter (absorbent clay litter)
- Paper towels
- Sandpaper sheets (no-slip grip abrasive sheet, 3M, Pro Grade Precision Cubitron II, P220 grit)
- Sanding discs (hook-and-loop orbital sander discs, 120 grit and 220 grit)
- Tan paint (interior paint, Behr, Harvest Brown)
- Water
- Wood filler (Plastic Wood, DAP)
- Spray paint (enamel spray paint, Rust-Oleum, Farm & Implement, Gloss Black)
- Drawer pulls (6, metal bar pulls, 5.5 in hole spacing)
- Paste finishing wax (protective wood wax, Minwax, Natural, 1 lb (454 g))
Step by step
Step 1: Strip the Dresser Top and Sides
Pour chemical stripper onto the dresser top and brush it onto the sides with a natural-bristle chip brush, let it sit for 15 minutes, and scrape the dissolved finish into a plastic-lined box.
- Pour and brush stripper onto the dresser top. Pour chemical stripper directly onto the dresser top and spread it into a thick, even layer across the surface and front edge using a natural-bristle chip brush.
- Tip: Apply chemical stripper to one section at a time so you can scrape it before it dries.
- Tip: Use a natural-fiber chip brush to spread the stripper.
- Common mistake: Using a synthetic paintbrush, which can melt in solvent-based stripper.
- Wait 15 minutes and scrape the top finish. Set a timer for 15 minutes to let the stripper dissolve the varnish, then push a metal putty knife flat along the wood grain to lift the sludge and wipe it into a plastic-lined cardboard tray.
- Tip: Put cat litter inside the disposal box to absorb the liquid stripper sludge and prevent spills.
- Tip: Reuse scraped stripper sludge on stubborn spots since the chemical is often still active.
- Brush and scrape stripper on the side panels and doors. Pour stripper into a glass mason jar, brush it onto the vertical side panels and cabinet doors with the chip brush, and scrape the dissolved finish off with the metal putty knife.
- Tip: Pour chemical stripper into a glass jar when working on vertical surfaces so you don't have to hold the heavy metal can.
- Watch out: Dispose of stripper waste at a local hazardous waste facility rather than leaving toxic fumes inside your home.
Step 2: Strip the Cabinet Doors and Detailed Molding
Apply chemical stripper to the cabinet doors and fluted trim, then remove the softened finish from the crevices using a metal putty knife, wire brush, razor scraper, steel wool, and paper towels.
- Scrub and reapply stripper on the cabinet doors. Scrub the softened finish on the center cabinet doors with coarse steel wool and brush fresh chemical stripper into the recessed door trim.
- Watch out: Always run a fan with the garage door open and wear a mask so you do not inhale chemical fumes.
- Scrape door molding with a razor blade. Draw a single-edge razor blade scraper along the straight recessed molding profiles on the cabinet doors to lift out the softened dark finish.
- Tip: Use a razor blade scraper to pull softened finish out of straight, tight molding ledges.
- Scrub fluted trim and door crevices with steel wool and brushes. Scrub the vertical flutes under the dresser top and the contoured door molding using steel wool and a small detail brush, then wipe away the loosened residue with paper towels.
- Tip: Use steel wool to scrub dissolved finish out of curved molding and nooks and crannies.
- Tip: Wrap a paper towel over a small detail brush to wipe dissolved residue out of tight flutes.
Step 3: Remove Doors and Strip the Interior Drawers
Unscrew the center cabinet doors with a drill and strip the dark finish off the interior and exterior drawers using chemical stripper and a metal scraper.
- Unscrew the center cabinet doors. Open the center cabinet doors and use a cordless drill to remove the hinge screws so you can access the interior drawers and strip the backs of the doors.
- Tip: Refinish interior drawers and the insides of cabinet doors when going from dark stain to light wood so the contrast isn't jarring when opened.
- Test plastic scraper on the interior drawer. Scrape the softened finish on the flat interior drawer front using a red plastic scraper and wipe the blade clean with a paper towel.
- Common mistake: Using a plastic scraper to remove heavy varnish, which leaves residue behind compared to a metal scraper.
- Brush stripper and scrape veneer drawer fronts with a metal scraper. Pour and brush chemical stripper across the remaining interior drawer fronts, let it dissolve the finish, and scrape it cleandown to bare wood using a metal putty knife.
- Tip: Remove as much finish as possible with chemical stripper on veneer surfaces so you only need light, high-grit sanding.
- Watch out: Be careful when scraping and sanding thin wood veneer to avoid breaking through to the substrate.
Step 4: Sand the Stripped Wood Surfaces
Hand-sand the recessed drawer fronts with 220-grit sandpaper on a sanding block, then sand the dresser top, molding edges, and sides smooth with a random-orbital sander.
- Hand-sand the drawer fronts with 220-grit sandpaper. Wrap a 220-grit sandpaper sheet around a flexible foam sanding block and hand-sand the recessed drawer fronts and trim profiles.
- Tip: Use 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a foam block to safely hand-sand detailed drawer trim and thin veneer panels.
- Sand the dresser top with a random-orbital sander. Attach sanding discs (120-grit followed by 220-grit) to a random-orbital sander and sand across the entire stripped dresser top until the wood grain is smooth and uniform.
- Tip: Use long, end-to-end strokes with small overlaps when using an orbital sander to avoid burning through veneer.
- Common mistake: Tilting the orbital sander or scrubbing aggressively in one spot on veneered furniture.
- Sand the top molding edges and side panels. Run the random-orbital sander along the beveled top edge molding and down the vertical side panels until all remaining dark stain is removed.
- Common mistake: Pressing hard with an orbital sander on edges and molding, which can flatten profiles or burn through veneer.
Step 5: Mix and Test the Tan Paint Wash
Mix equal parts tan paint and water in a plastic container to create a color-balancing wash and test the application on paper towels using a brush and foam roller.
- Mix equal parts tan paint and water. Scoop tan paint into a small plastic container, pour in an equal amount of water, and stir thoroughly with a stick and paintbrush until smooth.
- Tip: Mix half tan paint and half water to balance out mismatched wood species and prevent the wood from yellowing under a topcoat.
- Tip: Apply straight, undiluted tan paint over wood filler repairs before rolling on the paint wash so the patches blend in.
- Test the paint wash with a brush and foam roller. Brush a swatch of the paint wash onto a paper towel, then load a mini foam roller and roll a test strip beside it to check the opacity and coverage.
Step 6: Apply Paint Wash to Drawers and Dresser Top
Roll and brush the diluted tan paint wash evenly along the wood grain on the interior drawers, outer drawer fronts, and dresser top.
- Roll paint wash onto the flat interior drawers. Dip the mini high-density foam roller into the paint wash and roll it in long, even strokes along the wood grain across the flat interior drawer fronts.
- Tip: Apply the paint wash with a high-density foam roller on flat surfaces so it goes on evenly without needing to wipe off excess.
- Brush and roll paint wash onto the recessed drawer fronts. Brush the paint wash into the recessed molding of the exterior drawers using a paintbrush and foam brush, then roll over the center panel and frame with the mini foam roller.
- Tip: Use a paintbrush or foam brush to get paint wash into recessed drawer corners, then roll over the surface with a foam roller to blend out brush strokes.
- Roll paint wash across the dresser top and edge molding. Roll the tan paint wash in full-length passes from end to end across the dresser top and along the beveled top edge molding.
Step 7: Finish Applying Paint Wash to Trim and Base
Stir the settled paint wash and apply it across the base molding, side panels, and detailed drawer trim using a foam roller, foam brush, and round bristle brush.
- Stir the settled paint wash. Stir the diluted paint wash in the plastic container with a paintbrush to remix pigment that has settled to the bottom.
- Tip: Stir the paint wash frequently during application because the paint settles to the bottom of the water.
- Brush paint wash onto the base molding and carcass frame. Apply the paint wash along the lower base cutouts and front carcass rails using a foam brush, following the direction of the wood grain.
- Watch out: Bare wood often darkens and turns slightly pink when soaked with the water-based wash, only showing its true light color once dry.
- Apply paint wash to the side panels in vertical plank sections. Brush and roll the paint wash vertically down the side panels in 2-inch to 4-inch plank-width sections, using a foam brush to blend into the top and bottom trim edges.
- Tip: Apply the paint wash in vertical 'plank' sections along the grain so any drying lines look like natural wood planks.
- Tip: Use a foam brush to blend the paint wash right up to recessed edges where the foam roller cannot reach.
- Coat the remaining drawer fronts and feather the molding. Apply the paint wash to the remaining drawer fronts and edges using a foam brush and mini foam roller, then feather out any bubbles in the recessed molding with a soft round bristle brush.
- Tip: Use a soft round bristle brush to smooth out foam bubbles along profiled drawer molding.
- Brush paint wash into the upper fluted trim. Dab and brush the tan paint wash into the vertical flutes along the top frieze of the dresser using a foam brush and bristle brush.
Step 8: Spray Paint the Drawer Hardware
Place the 5.5-inch drawer pulls inside a cardboard box and coat them with gloss black spray paint.
- Spray paint the drawer pulls black. Arrange the छह 5.5-inch metal bar pulls inside a cardboard box and spray them with gloss black enamel paint.
- Tip: Check the exact center-to-center hole spacing on vintage dressers before ordering hardware, as many use non-standard 5.5-inch spacing instead of 5-inch.
Step 9: Seal with Paste Wax and Install Hardware
Rub natural paste finishing wax over the dried paint-washed dresser and drawers using a microfiber cloth, and attach the painted black drawer pulls.
- Rub paste finishing wax onto the dresser top and sides. Scoop natural paste finishing wax onto a microfiber cloth and rub it evenly into the dried paint-washed dresser top, edges, and side panels.
- Wax the drawer fronts and install the black drawer pulls. Rub paste wax across the recessed drawer fronts and trim with the microfiber cloth, clearing any buildup from the crevices, then screw the black bar pulls into the drawer fronts.
- Tip: Wipe excess wax out of nooks and crannies with a brush while it is still wet, or melt dried white buildup with a blow dryer.
- Common mistake: Leaving thick paste wax in recessed corners, where it dries white and crusty.