Octagonal Thatched Garden Shelter with Faux-Brick Walls and Lined Pool
Step-by-step guide made from RAMPE GLOBAL's YouTube video.
Build a small octagonal outdoor shelter framed around a central timber post, featuring a thatched grass roof over a waterproof tarp, drywall-sheathed walls painted in a faux-brick pattern, and custom louvered wood windows. Complete the retreat by excavating a crescent-shaped pool in front of the shelter, lining it with rigid insulation, foam padding, and a waterproof tarp, and finishing the perimeter with a wooden deck and gravel border.
- Difficulty: advanced
Safety
- Always wear eye, ear, and leg protection (chainsaw chaps) when operating a gas chainsaw.
- Never hold small workpieces down with your boot while ripping or cross-cutting them with a chainsaw; clamp the stock securely to a sawhorse or workbench.
- Avoid using a chainsaw above shoulder height when trimming rafters or thatch; use hedge shears or a pole trimmer instead.
- Wear work gloves and eye protection when cutting and stretching galvanized hexagonal wire mesh to avoid punctures from sharp wire ends.
Must know before you build
- Standard drywall degrades outdoors; use exterior-grade plywood or cement board for durability.
- Avoid chainsaw for ripping narrow slats or overhead thatch; use safer circular/hand saws.
Tools
- Claw hammer (hand hammer)
- Chainsaw (gas-powered chainsaw, STIHL)
- Hatchet (hand axe)
- Pencil (carpenter's pencil)
- Cordless drill/driver (battery-powered drill/driver, DeWalt)
- Utility knife (retractable blade knife)
- Work gloves (protective hand gloves) (optional)
- Curved pruning saw (hand pull saw)
- Paint roller (roller frame with extension pole)
- Paint brush (small trim brush)
- Digging bar (heavy metal pipe)
- Hand mattock (short-handled digging hoe)
- Utility bucket (plastic bucket)
- Water level tube (clear flexible plastic hose)
Materials
- Tree trunk post (natural timber log)
- Framing lumber and boards (dimensional softwood lumber and planks)
- Nails (common wire nails)
- Round log slice (cross-cut tree trunk disc)
- Hexagonal wire mesh (galvanized chicken wire rolls)
- Waterproof tarp (heavy-duty white plastic tarp)
- Dried grass bundles (natural brush and tall grass)
- Twine (natural fiber cordage)
- Drywall panels (gypsum wallboard sheets)
- Drywall screws (coarse-thread drywall screws)
- Joint compound (drywall spackle / mud)
- Masking tape (painter's masking tape)
- Exterior paint (terracotta / brick-red liquid paint, terracotta red)
- Pre-hung exterior door (framed panel door)
- River stones (natural cobbles and boulders)
- Rigid foam insulation panels (extruded polystyrene foam boards)
- Foam underlayment roll (closed-cell polyethylene foam sheet)
- Crushed gravel (angular crushed stone aggregate)
- Foam edge padding (flexible turquoise foam strips)
Step by step
Step 1: Set the Central Post and Level the Site
Dig a central post hole, set the vertical timber log in place by compacting soil and stones around its base, and sweep a board around the post to level a circular building pad.
- Dig the central post hole. Clear out the soil from the central hole by hand until it is deep enough to anchor the main support log.
- Set and tamp the central post. Drop the timber post upright into the hole, wedge large stones against its base, and tamp the excavated soil firmly around the trunk with a rock and your feet.
- Tip: Pack stones tightly around the base of the post in the hole before backfilling with soil to prevent the post from leaning.
- Sweep the circular pad level. Hold one end of a straight board against the base of the central post and drag it in a full circle to scrape high spots and level the building pad.
Step 2: Assemble the Radial Base and Wall Framing
Cut lap-joint notches into four long base beams using a chainsaw and hatchet, interlock them around the central post to form an eight-spoked star base, and nail angled lower struts, vertical wall posts, and horizontal braces to the base.
- Cut notches and interlock the radial base beams. Position four long beams around the central post, cut kerfs across the intersection points with a chainsaw, chisel out the waste with a hatchet, and interlock the beams into an eight-spoked star.
- Tip: Cut multiple closely spaced kerfs with the saw before chiseling out the lap-joint waste with a hatchet.
- Nail the lower angled wall struts. Stand eight angled lower wall struts on the outer ends of the radial base beams and nail them in place so they flare outward.
- Attach the inner vertical posts and horizontal wall braces. Nail tall vertical posts to the base beams inside each angled strut, secure the tops of the angled struts to the posts, and nail horizontal mid-wall braces around the octagon.
Step 3: Install the Notched Roof Hub, Rafters, and Fascia
Cut eight radial notches around a wooden log slice, fasten it atop the trimmed central post, nail eight rafters from the hub to the outer wall posts, trim the rafter tails even, and attach octagonal fascia boards around the eaves.
- Mark and notch the wooden roof hub. Use a piece of framing lumber as a width gauge to mark eight evenly spaced radial slots around a round log slice, then cut out the angled notches with a chainsaw.
- Tip: Use a scrap piece of the rafter lumber as a template to trace the exact notch widths across the center of the log disc.
- Trim the center post and mount the roof hub. Cut the top of the central post flat with a chainsaw, set the notched log hub on top, and drive long screws and nails down through the hub into the post.
- Install the eight roof rafters. Set the upper ends of eight rafters into the hub notches and nail them securely at both the central hub and the tops of the outer wall posts.
- Trim the rafter tails and attach fascia boards. Cut the overhanging rafter tails to a uniform length with a chainsaw, then nail fascia boards between the rafter ends and add final framing braces around the doorway.
Step 4: Attach Wire Mesh and Waterproof Roof Tarp
Staple hexagonal wire mesh around the wall framing, drape and nail a white waterproof tarp taut over the roof rafters, trim away the excess tarp hanging below the eaves, and secure a layer of wire mesh over the roof tarp.
- Wrap the wall framing with hexagonal wire mesh. Unroll galvanized hexagonal wire mesh around the seven wall bays and nail it taut to the upper, middle, and lower framing members.
- Drape, nail, and trim the waterproof roof tarp. Spread a large white waterproof tarp over the roof rafters, fold and nail the edges tightly along the fascia boards, and slice off the excess material hanging below the eaves with a utility knife.
- Install wire mesh over the roof tarp. Unroll hexagonal wire mesh across the tarped roof slopes and nail it along the eaves and fascia boards.
- Tip: Nail the top layer of chicken wire along the fascia edges so you can tie the grass thatch down without puncturing the main roof tarp.
Step 5: Thatch and Trim the Grass Roof
Bundle dried grass over the roof wire mesh from the eaves up to the peak, tie the thatch in place with twine, and trim the overhanging eaves evenly around the perimeter with a chainsaw.
- Layer and tie the lower course of grass thatch. Place bundles of dried grass along the lower eaves over the wire mesh and bind them tightly to the roof with twine.
- Spread thatch up to the roof peak. Climb onto the roof wearing work gloves and spread thick layers of dried grass over the upper slopes and peak until the white tarp is completely covered.
- Trim the overhanging thatch eaves. Walk around the perimeter of the shelter and trim the ragged ends of the overhanging grass thatch to a uniform line using a chainsaw.
- Watch out: Using a chainsaw overhead to trim loose grass thatch is hazardous; use hedge shears or a string trimmer instead.
Step 6: Sheathe the Exterior Walls with Drywall
Screw drywall panels onto the lower and upper angled exterior wall frames using a cordless drill, leaving the front doorway opening clear.
- Fasten the lower angled drywall panels. Position cut drywall panels against the lower flared wall sections and drive drywall screws into the wooden studs and horizontal braces using a cordless drill.
- Fasten the upper drywall panels and doorway trim. Screw the upper wall panels into place below the eaves and add narrow return strips along the angled sides of the front doorway.
Step 7: Build and Install Louvered Wood Windows
Rip wooden slats with a chainsaw, assemble two rectangular window frames with pivoting horizontal louvers linked by a pull string, cut square window openings on either side of the doorway, and fit the window units into the walls.
- Rip wooden slats for the window louvers. Cut thin wooden boards lengthwise with a chainsaw to produce eight matching louver slats for the two windows.
- Watch out: Never hold a board down with your foot while ripping it with a chainsaw; clamp the board to a workbench and use a circular saw or handsaw.
- Assemble the window frames and pivoting louver slats. Space four louver slats between two vertical side jambs, drive a single nail through each side jamb into the ends of each slat to act as pivot pins, and nail the top and bottom frame boards in place.
- Tip: Use a single nail through the side frame into each end of a slat so the nail acts as a hinge pin.
- Link the louvers with nails and twine. Tap a nail halfway into the middle edge of each louver slat, tie a length of twine tightly around each nail in sequence, and test the pull string on both completed window units.
- Cut the wall openings and install the windows. Cut square window openings through the spackled drywall and wire mesh on both sides of the doorway using a curved pruning saw, then press the two louvered window frames into the openings.
Step 8: Tape and Paint the Faux-Brick Exterior
Apply masking tape in a staggered brick-joint grid over the spackled white walls, roll terracotta paint over the entire exterior, and peel away the tape to reveal crisp white mortar lines.
- Tape the staggered brick mortar grid. Apply horizontal strips of masking tape evenly down the spackled white walls, then press short vertical strips between the rows in an alternating running-bond brick pattern.
- Tip: Apply the continuous horizontal tape lines first and overlap the short vertical strips on top so peeling the horizontal strips lifts the vertical ones with them.
- Roll and brush terracotta paint over the walls. Roll terracotta-red paint across all taped exterior wall panels, then use a small brush to cut in around the louvered windows, eaves, and doorway corners.
- Peel the masking tape to reveal the brick pattern. Pull off all the horizontal and vertical masking tape strips around the shelter to expose the white spackled mortar lines beneath the terracotta paint.
Step 9: Install the Exterior Door
Set the pre-hung exterior door and frame into the front entrance opening and nail a wooden threshold strip across the bottom.
- Fit the pre-hung door into the entrance opening. Carry the pre-hung exterior door to the shelter, stand the frame upright inside the front doorway opening, and fasten the upper jambs.
- Nail the bottom threshold strip and test the door. Nail a wooden sill strip along the base of the door frame and swing the door open and closed to verify smooth operation.
Step 10: Frame the Octagonal Stone and Wood Walkway
Stake wooden boards radiating outward from the shelter corners, stretch a string guide around their outer ends, and line the octagonal border with large river stones.
- Lay and stake the radial walkway boards. Place eight wooden boards on the ground radiating outward from the eight corners of the shelter and anchor their outer ends with nails and stakes.
- Stretch the perimeter string and place river stones. Wrap twine from board end to board end around the octagon, then set large river stones side by side along the inside of the string line.
- Tip: Run a string around the ends of the radial boards to guide the placement of the river stone border.
Step 11: Mark and Excavate the Pool Basin
Scribe a curved pool outline in front of the shelter with a stake and string, dig out the crescent-shaped basin using a digging bar and hand mattock, and compact the soil floor and walls with a flat board.
- Mark the curved pool perimeter and strip the sod. Use a stake and twine like a compass to trace a semicircular arc in front of the walkway, then break up the sod along the boundary with a heavy metal digging bar and toss the clods into the walkway bays.
- Tip: Reuse the sod and soil dug from the pool basin to backfill and level the octagonal walkway around the shelter.
- Excavate the crescent-shaped pool pit. Dig out the soil and rocks inside the marked crescent using the digging bar and a hand mattock, hauling the loose earth out in plastic buckets.
- Smooth and tamp the pool floor and walls. Remove stray pebbles and beat the dirt floor and vertical walls flat with a wooden board until the basin surface is smooth and compacted.
Step 12: Drive, Level, and Cap the Pool Retaining Stakes
Drive wooden stakes around the inside perimeter of the pool pit, transfer a uniform level line across all stakes using a water-filled clear tube, cut the stakes level with a chainsaw, and nail radial rim boards across their tops.
- Drive wooden retaining stakes around the pool wall. Position wooden boards vertically against the inside dirt wall of the pool pit at regular intervals and drive them into the floor using the poll of a hatchet.
- Mark a uniform level line with a water tube. Siphon water from a bucket into a clear plastic tube, hold both ends against a stake to calibrate the meniscus, and move one end from stake to stake around the pit to mark a uniform horizontal level line with a pencil.
- Tip: Hold both ends of the water-filled hose side by side on the first stake to verify the water levels match before transferring marks around the pit.
- Cut the stakes level with a chainsaw. Sight across the stakes and cut each wooden stake flat along its pencil mark using a chainsaw.
- Nail radial rim boards and coping across the stakes. Lay short boards radiating outward from the top of each stake onto the surrounding ground, nail them to the stake tops, and fasten perimeter rim boards connecting the stakes.
Step 13: Line the Pool with Foam Insulation, Underlayment, and Tarp
Set rigid foam insulation panels against the vertical pool walls, trim them flush with the rim, cover the basin floor and walls with green foam underlayment, and nail a large white waterproof tarp over the entire pool.
- Stand and trim rigid foam panels along the pool walls. Place rigid gray foam insulation boards vertically side by side against the staked pool walls and saw off the excess height flush with the wooden rim using a curved hand saw.
- Tip: Use the flat wooden pool rim as a saw guide to trim the rigid foam boards flush all the way around.
- Line the floor and walls with green foam underlayment. Unroll strips of green polyethylene foam underlayment across the pool floor and up the walls, lapping the ends over the wooden rim and nailing them in place.
- Spread and nail the waterproof pool tarp. Drape a single large white waterproof tarp across the entire padded basin, press it into the floor and corners, and nail the outer edges around the wooden rim.
Step 14: Add Gravel Border, Wooden Deck, and Foam Coping
Pour crushed gravel around the outer perimeter of the pool rim, plank the deck area between the shelter door and the pool, and nail turquoise foam padding along the pool coping and deck edges.
- Spread crushed gravel around the outer pool rim. Haul buckets of crushed gravel and dump them over the radial outrigger boards around the pool perimeter, spreading and tamping the stone with your hands and feet until the wood is covered.
- Nail turquoise foam coping around the pool rim. Fold strips of turquoise foam padding over the top edge of the pool rim and deck framing, nailing them down around the entire perimeter.
- Plank the wooden deck in front of the shelter. Nail wooden deck planks across the wedge-shaped platform between the shelter doorway and the inner curve of the pool, then finish nailing the foam trim.
Step 15: Fill the Pool with Water
Carry buckets of water from a nearby stream and pour them into the lined pool basin until full.
- Haul water from the stream and fill the pool. Dip plastic buckets into the nearby stream, carry them back to the shelter site, and pour the water into the lined pool basin.