Dresser Refinished with a Pottery Barn Faux Wood Finish
Step-by-step guide made from Black Sheep House's YouTube video.
This project transforms a dark, dated dresser into a stylish piece with a light, textured wood finish inspired by Pottery Barn. The process involves priming to create a textured base, applying a tan base coat, and then using a decorative glaze to achieve the faux wood grain effect. The original hardware is also updated with a new aged bronze look to complete the transformation.
- Difficulty: intermediate
Safety
- Ensure proper ventilation when working with paints, primers, glazes, and especially spray-on top coats. Work in a garage with the door open or outdoors if possible.
- Wear a respirator to protect against fumes and particulates from sanding and spraying.
Must know before you build
- Ensure decorative glaze is fully cured before top coat; uncured glaze will reactivate and smear.
- Choose tan base paint with specific undertones (e.g., pink) to avoid dated orange faux wood.
- Drag a dog grooming or stiff brush through wet primer to create authentic wood grain texture.
- Smooth spray-on polyurethane with a basting brush to prevent splotches and ensure an even finish.
- Seal Bondo repairs with shellac before priming to prevent bleed-through and ensure a smooth base.
- Apply a lighter, sheer glaze coat for faster drying and a modern, lighter faux wood aesthetic.
Tools
- Screwdriver
- Paint Brush (Chip Brush)
- Dog Grooming Brush (optional)
- Deck Staining Brush
- Basting Brush (Silicone or soft bristle)
- Small Craft Brushes (Hair dye applicator brush, Annie)
Materials
- Bondo (Body Filler)
- Shellac (Sealer)
- All-Purpose Primer (Water-based, KILZ, 2)
- Semi-gloss Paint (Latex, Behr, Tan)
- Decorative Glaze (Oil-based, Rust-Oleum, Java Brown)
- Rub 'n Buff (Wax-metallic finish, Antique Gold)
- Drawer Knobs (9)
- Ultimate Polyurethane (Water-Based Spray, Varathane, Satin)
Step by step
Step 1: Preparation and Cleaning
The creator introduces the dresser, shows the existing damage that has been repaired, and thoroughly cleans the entire piece to prepare it for painting.
- Assess and Repair Damage. The dresser is shown with pre-existing damage on the top surface that has already been filled with Bondo body filler, sanded smooth, and sealed with shellac.
- Tip: Use Bondo for durable repairs on damaged wood surfaces, then sand it flush before sealing.
- Clean the Dresser. The entire dresser is sprayed with a cleaning solution and wiped down with a cloth to remove all dust, grime, and residue.
- Tip: Use an industrial-strength degreaser and cleaner to ensure the surface is completely free of oils and dirt before painting.
- Remove Hardware and Adjust Slides. The old hardware is removed from the drawers. The creator also inspects the metal drawer slides, tightens a loose one, and applies lubricant to ensure they all slide smoothly.
- Tip: Before painting, check all mechanical parts like drawer slides. Clean and lubricate them for smooth operation.
Step 2: Priming and Adding Texture
A coat of KILZ 2 primer is applied, and while it's still wet, a dog grooming brush is used to create a linear texture that will mimic wood grain.
- Apply a Coat of Primer. A water-based primer (KILZ 2) is brushed onto the surface of the dresser. The creator applies a relatively thick coat to have enough material to create texture.
- Create Wood Grain Texture. While the primer is still wet, a dog grooming brush is dragged in long, straight lines across the surface to create a texture that resembles wood grain.
- Tip: This texturing step is optional. Your paint brush might create enough texture on its own.
- Tip: Applying a thicker, textured coat of primer will take longer to dry than a thin, smooth coat.
- Common mistake: Painting over a thick, textured layer of primer before it's fully cured can cause bubbles to form under your paint.
Step 3: Applying the Base Coat
A semi-gloss tan paint is brushed onto the entire dresser, serving as the base color for the faux wood finish.
- Paint the Dresser. The creator applies a tan-colored semi-gloss paint over the entire primed surface of the dresser, including the top, sides, and drawer fronts, using a chip brush.
- Tip: For an authentic Pottery Barn look, choose a tan paint with the correct undertones (pink, yellow, or neutral) for the wood you're trying to mimic.
Step 4: Applying and Blending the Decorative Glaze
Rust-Oleum decorative glaze is applied in sections and then blended and textured using various brushes to create the final faux wood grain appearance.
- Apply Glaze in Sections. Using a fluffy chip brush, the Rust-Oleum Java Brown decorative glaze is applied over the tan base coat. The creator works in sections, applying the glaze liberally.
- Tip: Let the base coat of paint cure for a day or two before applying the oil-based glaze to prevent any issues.
- Blend and Smooth the Glaze. A large, dry deck staining brush is used to smooth out the wet glaze, dragging it in long, straight strokes to create the primary wood grain effect and blend any harsh lines.
- Tip: For a lighter finish, apply less glaze or use more pressure with the dry brush to remove more of it. For a darker finish, do the opposite.
- Add Detail and Texture. The creator uses various smaller brushes, including a broom and a hair dye brush, to add more texture, create variation, and define the details and crevices of the dresser.
- Tip: A small, stiff brush (like one for hair dye) is perfect for pushing glaze into the grooves and details of the furniture.
- Tip: Pouncing or stippling with a dry brush can create interesting variations and break up the linear grain for a more natural look.
Step 5: Finishing the Hardware
New knobs are given an aged bronze finish using Antique Gold Rub 'n Buff applied with a small brush.
- Apply Rub 'n Buff to Knobs. The creator squeezes a small amount of Antique Gold Rub 'n Buff onto a piece of cardboard. Using a small, dry brush, she applies the metallic wax finish to the new knobs, creating an aged bronze effect over the original dark finish.
- Tip: You don't need to apply a clear coat over Rub 'n Buff on hardware; it's a durable wax-based finish on its own.
- Common mistake: Applying too much Rub 'n Buff at once can look clumpy; it's better to build up thin layers.
Step 6: Applying the Top Coat
A water-based polyurethane spray is applied as a protective top coat, and a soft basting brush is used to smooth it out and prevent a splotchy finish.
- Spray and Smooth the Top Coat. The creator sprays a light coat of Varathane water-based polyurethane onto a section of the dresser. Immediately after spraying, she uses a clean, dry, and soft basting brush to gently smooth out the sprayed finish, eliminating any drips or splotches and creating an even sheen.
- Tip: To avoid smearing the glaze, spray the top coat on and then gently smooth it with a very soft, dry brush, like a silicone basting brush.
- Tip: For areas you can't easily spray, like between drawers, spray the polyurethane directly onto the brush and then dab it on.
- Watch out: Always wear a respirator when using spray-on finishes, even in a well-ventilated area.
- Common mistake: Brushing on a liquid top coat directly can reactivate the oil-based glaze and smear the finish, especially if the glaze isn't 100% cured.